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Welcome to SM Danielle. You got a nice lookin Mk III there ;)

Whoa! :eek3: That's way high...what's he running? A 50W or 60W oil! That's not good :3d_frown:

I was concerned about the routing because I didn't know if the oil cooler was actually doing it's job...i.e warm to the touch at operating temp. Just wanted to make sure some lines didn't somehow get swapped around in the routing ;) An oil thermostat would be a great addition to his...

IMO - Use the chrome tips...it will look more finished and the heat will color the chrome a bit. Or use stainless for the tips, polish and get that gold color from the heat ;) If you're using mild steel for the piping, get the whole thing ceramic coated on the inside/outside. That makes it...

I'll add the MK III Differential Options by Year & Model (Copied from Mkiiitech.com - posted by drjonez 24 Aug 03) '86.5 - '90 GA70s w/the 1G-GE have a 4.56, clutch-pack or Torsen LSD 7.5" differential, NOT compatible with any of the other A70 diff setups. All 1G-GTE equipped GA70s have...

If you buy a 180 and cut it, you can customize to exacty what bend you need. And you'll have a bend left over to use further down. ;)

From the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&Page=4 At operating temperature: At Idle - 4.3 psi or more At 3000 rpm - 36-71 psi When the oil is cold, the gauge will show higher psi until it's warmed up; then it should fall into the above ranges...

Check the driveshaft center bearing 1st...I hope that's it, the alternative is not likely to be good ;)

Reg Riemer did it: http://suprasonic.org/gtestory/

Oh yes...like JAV said above, the smoother the better. The RA specs are max requirements

Might want to think about something...it didn't come across as a joke. Most guys will put "j/k" when they are joking around and that's fine. We can't read your mind. Ask your drag car buddy how many times a year he re-builds his motor. And what about the NASCAR guys? They're running 0W-20...

From the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&Page=4 At operating temperature: At Idle - 4.3 psi or more At 3000 rpm - 36-71 psi When the oil is cold, the gauge will show higher psi until it's warmed up; then it should fall into the above ranges...

Hey man - you're the one that gave Donny the finger. I was being pretty nice about your lack of knowledge till then...I saw that and the gloves came off. You'd be a great customer for Bi-Tron :biglaugh:

Either will work and can be dropped right in to your NA. The 3.73 ratio LSD will give you a little lower (100-200) rpm at highway cruise with your auto tranny. However, since you have an NA, I'd go with the 3.91 LSD so you keep some acceleration ability. I also have an auto...I swapped my...

All you want to know: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40

You and Jenny are welcome...(I guess) :icon_conf

Actually the instructions say 81 ft/lbs (w/ moly) is the recommended torque and that value is at 75% of yield strength. Doing the math, that makes the yield strength of the studs at 107 ft/lbs of torque.

Agreed...the oil should be cooler than that. In the head, it does cool the cam, lifters/shims and the valve stems...a lot of heat producing friction there. I'd check the plumbing 1st...make sure all the lines are routed correctly. Does the oil cooler feel warm to the touch once the motor...

You're welcome :icon_bigg Can't help with the tool...machine shop did mine. And yes, you want to do both the head and block. Do a search for post by me "jdub" with "MHG" and "ARP" and you'll find a ton of info ;) The Cometic spec is 50 RA...that's why you hear it's "more forgiving"...

What was it?