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Take a look at this (if you haven't seen it) on wiring the Nissan TPS: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=663 I'm out on the road right now and don't have access to my wiring diagrams. What you're describing is a gauge fuse...replace the fuse and check it again. You can also...

All I can say is...WOW :icon_bigg

You should see it if one of the turbo coolant lines ruptures with a hot motor...it's pretty spectacular. ;)

Oh, I assure you it's relevant...that's why I talked about the stock TB and the effect a sub-sized TB will have. Mike had a top end problem due to the IC inlet/outlet being too small...this is the reason why. Corky Bell (founder of CarTech...trained mechanical engineer) has discussed critical...

One other issue with the speedo cable and an aftermarket downpipe. Be very careful of the routing...if the cable is too close to the downpipe, the heat will melt the cable sheathing. All will be well...until you shut the car down and the sheathing material solidifies around the cable. Next...

Check your coolant lines to the turbo...might be a good idea to replace the hoses if they are old. There's also a small 90 deg hose under the waterneck to the hard line around the block.

You have to look at the turbo, intercooler, piping, and throttle body as a system. One part affects the efficiency of the others…you have to look at the CFM flowed by the turbo, the capacity and pressure drop of the IC, and the diameter of the IC piping and TB. Piping size has a huge...

Be aware the Autolite 3923 plugs are about 1/8" shorter than stock. On my MSD wires, it caused a light misfire due to the poor connection between the plug and wires.

Yeah, I miss AD myself...the life was hard at times, but I would not trade the experience for anything. And I really miss burning up the sky with a blow torch strapped on ;) ENJJPT huh...must have done really well :bigthumb: WSO in the "Mud Hen" is not too shabby either...that machine can...

That would be me ;) 15 years active duty...been in the reserves almost 9 years now. Derk, you're about to embark on some of the best years in your life. It's the people you meet and the job that makes it all worth while. Weather Man - Regardless of enlisting or becoming a commissioned...

You're welcome :) As long as you're not going crazy with the boost and you've got it torqued down well, the stock HG should last a long time. You just might be waiting a while ;)

It will have to be later...gotta fly a plane from Tucson to DC ;) BTW - you are correct in telling Justin to go with the larger TB. It will not have a big effect unless it restricts flow (the larger one won't) and allows later upgrades. Personally I like the Mustang TB, but whatever works...

Oh...trust me. "If" I decide to take the time to explain the science, it will be based on physics and not the usual "it feels better" stuff that's rampant on this forum ;) The garden hose vs. soda straw is a good analogy, but it does depend on the turbo. The turbo's capability to move...

The size piping depends on the capability of the turbo to provide flow at or just below the critical velocity. Critical velocity is determined by the piping/TB/IC inlet & outlet diameter. A diameter of 2.5" might not be a restriction for an upgraded CT26, different story for a GT4067r ;)...

There's several wires that ground to the intake manifold.

Then you're going to be SOL working on this car :3d_frown: Suggest you get a very good mechanic.

I would like to hear this explanation ;) Especially the effect pipe diameter has on air flow critical velocity and the effect on critical velocity through a smaller opening from a larger pipe. I believe Bernoulli had quite a bit to say on this subject ;)

You can re-use ARP studs or bolts...use the ARP spec for the hardware...81 ft/lbs for studs, 75 ft/lbs (aluminum head spec) for bolts...both specs assume using moly for lube. These torque specs apply to both MHG's and stock type composite gaskets. APR recommends a 5 pass loosening/tightening...

Or 3923's and MSD wires either ;)

If you want to test the check valve, just install the ISC without the check valve. You can't leave it that way...it's purpose is to prevent back flow to the ISC under boost. The check valve does allow air into the intake manifold at idle...it's always open when the manifold is under vacuum...