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Straight 30W for the break-in allows the rings to seat properly.

Fun if you're a Troll...;) Do what you will on a re-torque...IMO, it's a good idea.

The IDL signal from the TPS tells the ECU to enable idle speed control. Read this for more info: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=912

Grim's right...it's not the HG, but like the CPS. Here's a link to what it should look (bottom of page) like w/ the motor at DTC: http://jblmk3.com/id92.htm

LOL...I'll take that as a compliment Matt ;) Like I've said before, if I'm gonna pay syn oil prices, I want a true syn oil.

It's a good oil...just realize it's not a true synthetic. It's a hydrocracked Grp III. Here's the data sheet: http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf Note it's quite a bit thinner at 100 deg C than the 0W-30 ;)

Racer - You are obviously one of those guys that's smarter than the engineers that design head bolts/studs. I mentioned the use of a stretch gauge because it is the most accurate method...you didn't even attempt to see the point and you either didn't read or ignored the rest of the info on...

Racer - You're one of those guys that doesn't know what you don't know. Read this...all of it: http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html ARP bases the engineering of their bolts based on a given stretch...the material's rebound ability is what provides the clamping force. In fact, the...

Nice call CJ ;)

^^^ Exactly what I said in post #15 ;)

My ISC does not make a sound either...it's a screw type actuator. If you want to test it, unplug it with the car running and idle stablized. This freezes it in the idle position. Remove and take a look to check position of the valve. Re-install and plug it back in, start car for a minute...

I like #3...LOL ;) http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=chode

Code 51 will not cause the check engine light to come on ;) You need to check.

Those prices are reasonable...you get what you pay for and from what you've said it sounds like he knows what he's doing. Sounds like quality work at a fair price to me. BTW - when you replace the freeze plugs, make sure you use Toyota. The Dorman plugs are an english measure plug (not...

Read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=912 Unless the ECU is getting an IDL signal from the TPS, it will not go into idle rpm mode....you should be throwing a code 51. Idle speed for the 7M-GE should be 700 rpm...AC, headlights off...

I'm pretty sure the boost gauge drive circuit box is required to complete the circuit, even if the gauge itself is removed. You can get around this by making a jumper wire and connect it between the 2 screws (pens are pointing to in pic). This will be required to get the voltmeter to work...

The reason the stock bolts loosen up at 58 ft/lbs is the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminum head and the steel block. It does cause an addition bit of "stretch" and will slowly loosen the bolt up. Even at 70-75 ft/lbs this still occurs...a re-torque after 5 heat cycles...

Take a look at this diagram: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=136 It shows gauge fuse power flows through connector 1F on Junction Box (J/B) #1 in the left kick panel http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=16...

I've been thinking about this...you know, you are right. It is rather arrogant of me to post trivial info that 90% of the people don't understand...it was against my better judgement to post...I should never have done so. I'll delete the post so the folks that read this thread can have the...

Here's a post on the signals the TPS supplies to the ECU: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=912 You're using the e-Manage...can you disconnect it to determine if that's the problem source? Have you worked on the car lately...specifically on the areas causing difficulty?