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As rumptis said it'll pass muster as long as the tailpipe falls below the cutoff points. The visual is a crap shoot with the only question in this case being the AFPR. Technically speaking even a non OEM hose on an emissions system is grounds for failure but most techs won't go that far. Altered...

Without going into detail the knock system is not passive but neither is it full time. The parameters needed to turn the system "on" are the same ones used to set the code ie; when the parameters are met the ECU begins knock control. If at that time it doesn't see the signal(s) used to monitor...

dc: code 52 requires parameters be met in load, rpm, and time before it turns the MIL on. I'd tell you what they are but then I'd have to kill ya ;) viper: You have a wiring or sensor problem. Most likely wiring.

That's better than knowing what it's called but not knowing where to put it ;)

I'm confused. If you know what the code does and how to fix it you'd know it can't have anything to do with your gas.

High Tension is another term used to describe high voltage. He's referring to his plug wires.

Both are way overkill for your need but if you can get the Amsoil free I'd use that. Since GC has all but disappeared it's going to be near impossible to find anyway. Your Dad is funny btw. I've never met an Amsoil dealer who hasn't drank Al's Kool-Aid.

It's a digital signal. The amplitude is either going to be right or not. No in between. There would have to be an enormous amount of contamination on the mirror to effect it's mass and thus frequency. Myself, I normally measure stuff before messing with it. If the signal is correct I leave it...

Unable to view the pic in a larger format but that looks right. On the manifold, not the starter. Assuming you get the electrical problems resolved when ready plug everything in, turn the key on and jumper the fuel pump to inspect for leaks. Then pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine to get...

The damage done to it by solvents is usually to the optics, not the circuit. The optics involved the emitter, photo transistor, and mirror. I understand your car may have been working fine but your belief you could make it run better or that the sensor needed maintenance was based on ignorance...

The manifold is where they go and there should be more than what you're claiming to have.The starter is not a wise choice because although it may work you're likely to have problems later on. Mine are connected directly to the battery by added wiring. You can't be indiscriminately swapping...

It's not a MAF and therein lies one of the problems. People who don't understand how our AFM works equate it with a hotwire, the device this product was designed to be used on and a device far more susceptible to contamination because of how it works. So susceptible that on most cars the ECU is...

ECU Not connected? Sigh. For someone asking for electrical help you sure leave out pertinent details. Why would you decide to connect the battery with the ECU disconnected? Anyway, lucky you. It's going to either be what ALT said (grounding) or there's nothing wrong at all. It's just feedback...

Well there you go. It's not supposed to be 650-750 when cold. Your coolant sensor is bad.

Temperature will effect coil resistance. I thought the TSRM makes that clear but I could be wrong. It's a fact though. Nobody has asked this but codes? Recent maintenance? Any driveability issues?

Uh, how are you gonna check codes if nothing on the dash lights up? That's the fuel pump speed control relay on the fender. It's controlled by the ECU. I can assure you changing it will not help. Your lack of dash lights tells me you have multiple problems but the lack of a CEL along with the...

So your pal connected the cables backwards? Lol, a "minor" detail you should have mentioned before. Which relay is clicking, the one on the right fender or the one in the passenger side footwell? And it does this with the key off? Do you get a CEL with the key on? Codes? You see where I'm going...

Define fuel pump relay. If a relay clicks it's usually good but if it's clicking at the wrong time that's not a good thing. Old harness? New? If new same model year as old?

I could answer that question but it's more fun to watch the yes no thing in action. Jeff: edit, never mind....it's me. Eyes aren't what they used to be....

Sorry, I should have made it clear that only applies to California in both Basic and Enhanced areas. Being formally emissions certified I still get updates from BAR. Details are on their website. No need for a gas cap plug as the cap is already sealed in that direction. EVAP testing is built...