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Oh no, there's actually a lot of us now.

Seating and adjusting valves is (somewhat) time consuming and shims cost a lot. 24 r/r sounds right though. Valve seals from Toyota (if you aren't supplying) are big $$$.

Sensor for water tempurature is a spade clip on the thermostat housing. Oil pressure is on the passenger side of the engine block, close to the front, near the bottom. The sending unit itself is gold in color and should have a rubber boot over it. You might have trouble reaching it without...

You win.... . . . . . A lifetime supply of JB weld! </threadjack>

Shhhhhhh. You weren't supposed to guess. JB Weld ftw! (Maybe I'll use it to tap out that new oil pump mounting hole, but thats a different story :icon_razz, no I'm actually gonna tap it M8x1.25 )

What I enjoy is a member who's name will not be mentioned because he is supposed to have a fairly good reputation and is trademarked by lack of spelling's idea to use JB Weld to fix pitting in a block. Winner idea. :icon_mad: GET A NEW COVER. Its a pain in the ass but you DON'T want leaks...

Hey, you live on Townsend Road in Sooke! I'm building my motor up at Otter point! And I think you go to school/went to school with my girlfriend! :icon_razz

use wet toilet paper. Its cheap and it works, and shouldn't push through as easily as grease.

This man speaks the truth.

I agree. I got my new oil pump complete with OEM plastic bag and OEM box (<-- woo) for an extra 40 USD. For the safety of knowing this pump is what they stuck in the car in the factory, not a reconditioned one, I think it's worth it.

I am to please, what can I say.

Swapping a rad can be done with a (I think 10mm socket+ratchet) in your driveway in about 10 minutes. Just take the hoses off and look at the 2 (two) bolts you need to remove to pull the radiator out. The hardest (and longest) part is draining the coolant from the plug in the bottom of the...

Off topic but... I saw cheap + 7MGTE in the same sentence and chuckled. Junkyard/jdm will need to have money dumped into them if you're not using them for parts. If you're lucky a junkyard one will run with **less** work.

Yea yea.. you know what I meant. They are a rare commodity indeed.

Just go find a Turbo-A Oil pan and be done with it. :icon_bigg

No offence, but since you suck at searching (this isn't the first time), I managed to find it in 30 seconds. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30763&highlight=injector+wire

^ Holy wheelgap batman! Not for much longer though. Woo. me need engine back now. Cometic gasket makes me so happy.

Drain oil. Do your HG Job. Leave the spark plugs out, we don't want compression. Fill it up with oil. Crank the engine on your starter for 5-10 seconds (until you see oil pressure on the gauge), a few times. Drain oil, with any possible contaminants washed out of your oil system...

Good luck to your Mr Knifeartist sir! If you follow the book and make sure you DRAIN YOUR OIL HARD CORE, you should be okay. I'd suggest giving it a _good_ cranking and then changing the oil once more before another _good_ cranking, to make sure any contaminants are out. ARP's + a new...

Shit son. Before I started my entire rebuild, all I had done was change valve cover gaskets and install an exhaust. Now my engine is at the shop and I'm making THEM put it together. My machinist has built more 7m's than I have, so I'll trust him. The job is do-able alone, a HG change is...