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You want a thick MP grease in the groove all the way around the inner lip of the seal. There's no need to oil it.

Ah right... I got my codes a little mixed up. I was actually thinking of code 35, but that's when you do the HAC (High Altitude Compensation) mod and let the Maftpro supply the signal, which is the same time-delay problem as code 24. Those two codes don't really bother me though. In future, I...

California models have a secondary oxygen sensor after the catalytic converters. See EPC figure 8401.

Codes for a missing airflow signal and missing air temp signal are normal with the Maftpro. They are caused because the ECU checks for those things before the Maftpro has a chance to boot up. Once the maftpro boots, it supplies those signals, but the codes have already been set. Looking at your...

Heheh, careful with the sarcasm on here! :-) KnifeArtist, try this link for starters: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85 After that, I'd just keep reading around, and form your own opinion, depending on which pads you end up getting.

Using the Toyota EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) along with the info you have posted, here is what I can tell you: Model: MA70L-BJMVZA Engine: 7MGTE Transmission: R154 manual Steering: PPS (Progressive power steering) Date of manufacture: September, 1989 Differential: Limited slip. 3.73 final...

I run Brembo rotors with Akebono Ceramic pads all around. They are a very good design as far as I can tell. The pad material is not black, so it doesn't make your wheels dirty as fast when you're using the brakes a lot.

I didn't have a 1K ohm 1/4 watt resistor so I used a 1.5K ohm 1/2 watt instead, and it did the trick for my oxygen sensor heater circuit code. It fit perfectly in the connector for the oxygen sensor too... no soldering required!

Here's what my setup looks like... The unit is lightly held by the stereo retainer so it doesn't slide around by itself. I keep the laptop cable coiled in the glovebox and just take it out when I need it.

I love being able to check the SensorMonitor when I'm stopped at a light. But each to his own. The wires are not visible on my setup. Anyway, you don't need to cut the firewall! Just make a small slit in the rubber where the existing harness goes through the firewall on the passengers side of...

If you are running a 1/2 height headunit where the stock stereo unit used to be, there's a handy space to put the maftpro. I used one of those generic plastic headunit mounting kits to hold my new headunit at the top of the space, and the maftpro slots in perfectly below it. I just pull the...

Your break-in process is almost exactly what I do! If you have a compression tester, I'd recommend that you do a compression test before starting your engine (and record all those numbers). Then in a few hundred klicks, if you're wondering how well your rings have broken in, you can do it again.

Cool stuff! If you do use washers at the ends of the block where the crank scraper doesn't extend to, make sure you test-fit the oilpan bolts through those washers before you plonk your oilpan down on the fresh bead of FIPG! It really sucks taking that FIPG stuff off only half an hour after...

Please go read the LC-1 manual. It tells you what each analog output does. It should then be clear what you need to do. If not, post up that you have read the LC-1 and the maftpro user manuals so we know you have done your homework.

Good call. I was actually second guessing that myself when I started thinking about ALL applications and configs.

Do not cut ANY ecu wires besides the KS! There is no need to unless you are getting into more advanced things like timing control. If the manual says "tap into", then take the insulation off a 2cm section of the ecu harness about 6-10cm back from the connector (I use a small wire stripper to...

Two things.... first some help, and then some advice: The help: You are most likely looking at the diagram from the wrong orientation. The other possibility is that you have a crossover year ecu. The best thing to do is get ahold of a TSRM for your EXACT model year, and look in the EFI section...

You may want to re-calibrate your WB sensor too. I don't think it would be *that* far off, but stranger things have happened.

There's a note at the end of the Maftpro User Manual that explains how to do a reset. I suggest you set your maftpro to use VE Table #2 before and after doing this. The base tune on that table is a closer fit for our cars than Table #1.

FYI the Duplicolor Aluminum coloured engine enamel paint has been working great for me so far. That's after a commercial rust converter and a sonic clean of the block.