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There are a number of parameters in the 'pro that use your expected tps voltages... part throttle tracking idle, and afr tracking back-off 70% thing come to mind. Have a read through the new 1.5 maftpro user manual.

Hahaha! For real? :-) Let us know if you get er idling with that thing. I will be very impressed. Aren't you a little worried about the lack of timing that the ecu will pull, because it has no clue that you're sucking in 77% more air and fuel than it thinks you are?

Nifty! I use my maftpro. :-)

Dddduuuuuuddddeeee... you gotta do a little more research! :-) Have a look at the companies that sell the maftpro. Or just do a search on here. Yes I could have just told you the answer, but I would love it if you take a little more time and learn about this system. You're going to need that...

I believe the easiest way to do this would be to use one of the Maftpro's analog outputs, Vout1 or Vout2, assuming you're not already using both of them for something else. Then you set the correct parameter in the 'pro. Something like the 3 bar map sensor simulation. I'm not sure exactly...

You may also want to consider the Maftpro. The only things it's missing from your list are 2-step and confirmed timing control. We have timing control working for the 7M, but I haven't heard of a 1J setup yet. If you go any bigger than 650-680cc injectors... I would say you are in standalone...

Yes, all your photos and naming appear correct. If you get a replacement crank, then grab a micrometer and verify that all the crank journals are still within the range, given the numbers stamped on the crank. The cross-reference chart is in the TSRM. After you have cleaned out the oil...

I think he bought or inherited the car like that. I don't like what has been done to the car... but it happens. Ymh seems to want to fix it though, so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.

Of course you can. However, here are the consequences: 1. Your idle-up system will not work. That means that when you turn the wheel when stopped, your engine may stall out. 2. Your blow-off valve will not work. That means that your turbo will be wrecked fairly quickly if you have one. I am...

Do you have a picture (or a couple) you can post up of your engine?

Can you test it by hand by simply blowing through it with the knob backed right off, or hook it up to an air compressor? FYI the Suprasport instructions about having this thing in the cabin are retarded! You'll get massive boost spikes if you do that because of the length of vacuum hose that's...

What, no Idle Speed Control at all? How does it run? In other words, how does the engine get any air to idle with the throttle plate closed?

Thanks grim. OK Dumbo, Code 21 due to heater circuit failure is a red herring in your case, because AFAIK your year of ecu does not check for it. It only checks for the sensor voltage itself. 13.xx volts is fine. That's battery/alternator voltage. 0.00 volts is also fine. That's the ground...

Because then we can't do any fun stuff, like using the Maftpro Part Throttle Tracking features, lean cruise like 16.0:1 AFR, getting rid of the lean spike right before 3500rpm/70%throttle, etc etc

We're not. AFAIK we all have widebands. One of the questions here is whether we run with both wideband and narrowband sensors, retaining closed-loop ecu control, or whether we ditch the narrowband input and run permanent open-loop.

Fine, besides doubly compensating for altitude, lol. :-)

Hrrrmmmm. Well if you try it again, the first thing I'd do is stick the resistor straight into the O2 connector in the engine bay. Check the contacts with a voltmeter to be sure first, but I believe they are the two that are closer together. Here's what my O2 connector looks like on the sensor...

Yeah, code 21 due to heater circuit failure keeps the light on. It's one of the few codes that do. However, I'm showing it for a GTE ecu only. Do you have a 7M-GTE ecu? If so, what year? Apparently the early ecu's did not check the heater circuit. Ref...

I looked all over the EPC for that part... no luck yet. Your best bets are the junkyard or a parts car.

Are you getting any voltage at your oxygen sensor connector, specifically for the heater element?