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thats what Im talking about when I say once the motor is warm and you are driving it. If you look at the Overflow bottle and there is Consistant water being blown from it (wet frame all the time from the water shout) then you have a Problem with 1. Thermostat or radiator cap 2. you have having...

I hope that he Decked the rear timing cover with the Block, If not then he might be out of luck... Dam RTV quick fixes.... More than likely Air bubbles in your cooling System. When you first Initally start the car up, you should have the front end on a upward Slant with your Heater on...

got it..... I removed the Assembly that Keeps the throttle linkage up and the Idle Dropped instantly. All I need to do not is remove the Small rod that you were talking about. Thanks alot all, Idle is around 700rpm once the engine has warmed up. Robert

Well, If you get a chance I would greatly appreciate it. I changed the TB Size to 9 and my A/F at 700 rpms is between 14.7 - 15.5

Page 33 I think of your Build thread has a Q45. I see the Huge Spring Assemble on mind that yours doesnt have right below the Throttle cable linkage. Would this Picture be the one that you are referring too..... I will take a Pic of mine as soon as I get home and I will add it to this...

I know with the Stock TPS, My settings were exactly where Specified at Idle and WOT... I did the Voltage check just with the Key in the On Position and it read .53v but when I started the car it went down to roughly .34 but once I get this Q45 Idle Issue Solved Im sure it will steady out alot...

Ok, I got the throttle Adjustment screw. Thanks for that Picture, Now I need to figure out how to Disable the other thing that you are talking about. Started the car up a little while ago and the Idle at Initial startup jumps up to around 2400rpms and sits there. This is just a reference for...

Yes, I am running coolant lines from the ISC to the Throttle body and then back around to the Line under the Lower intake. Since the Stock throttle body was run that was and Im running a ISC I thought it had to be the same. If there is a better way by all means let me know.

Ah, ok so why is it that its Idling up so high at startup and not settling down any at all until roughly 4 to 5 minutes. Im sure there is a way to Adjust something somewhere. Robert

Is there any Setting in v5.03 that need to be adjusted to get a Q45 Throttle body to work correctly ie throttle Body Size? I tested the TPS and at no Throttle its reading .53, At full throttle its reading 4.93, Would this be a correct reading for a Q45 and if so, is there somethere in the...

so I Started my car up today after installing my FFIM and Q45 Throttle body. When it started the Idle was really high and took a very long time before it even wanted to Idle down (like 5 minutes or so) I know that there is an Idle Screw on there somewhere but I havent been able to find it...

Only MK3 Pictues.... Ok, Moving on... J/K ofcourse

I got it. There is a DifferenCE between where they put the Relays between the 2 models. MK3 has them in the right Kick Panel. MK2 has them in the Left Kick Panel. I will get a wire over to it and let you know how it turns out. Thanks JJ.

OK. Be back in a Little while.

ECU is on the Passenger side as like the MK3s OCR (open Circuit relay) is in the Driver side Kick panel

So you are saying tap the STA wire up close to the ECU and run it directly to the Starter relay and leave everything else alone on the manual harness?

Yep, the STA wire is there. Small black/blue wire

Im looking in the corrrect place. What I did is pilled a little of the Wiring back on the Manual harness and one of the wires that split off the starter wire goes to the CSI as it states in the Diagram. On the Auto harness, I did the same thing looking for the Blue/black starter wire and...

Thats my point. The manual harness has on but for some reason the Auto harness doesnt on this one. sorry for the crappy Pic. Dam camera Phone. Its a Blue/Black wire coming from the manual harness with a Brown female plug.