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Maybe heat would help?

ah, ya, the NA's actually screw in

Theres a lower section that is driven into the block, then you have the upper tube with an oring that slides loosely into the lower section, then has a bolt that goes through a bracket brazed on the upper tube and secures it to the turbo

Stock bolts dont need to be re torqued, he probably used a ratchet to tighten the head down...

You can fix the return line with a piece of rubber oil hose and clamps, you only have to worry about the high pressure line.

What exactly is a rebuild if you use old bearings?

Rod has a marking, crank has a marking for each rod journal. Add the two numbers together (one from the rod, one from the crank) and that should equal whatever number bearing you need to use on that journal.

if they are all stock size, and you have the old bearings matched to each rod still, you can see what bearing number you have, and look at the marks on the crank to figure out which rod went where

Measure them and then measure the bores, then put the right ones in where they fit with the best clearance

How can i tell the difference between real NPR rings and chinese knock-offs? They came in an NPR box with a hologram sticker

Billy will be missed.

Thanks for the tip, but i have a cylinder head with work done by them, and im not impressed with their work. Im going to end up taking my stuff to a shop i have heard good things about in California.

This question really never got answered, im trying to figure out what rings to go with as well. I already have NPR's that came with my pistons but im not sure if they are the best rings to use or not. Going for basically stock power, some basic upgrades. THanks for any tips.

Why not just use a whole new stock setup?

No reason to remove it if its still there, you're just going to create more clearance etc. Even if its scratched it is only babbit, its soft, it doesn't need to be perfect.

Strut towers are very strong, i dont thing holding a motor up on them is going to damage anything. How do you think they do clutch and transmission jobs on FWD cars, where 3 of the 4 mounts are on the transmission itself?

Wow, it looks like someone went to the hardware store and picked up some screws that threaded into the holes in the crank... Definitely invest in some REAL flywheel screws from Toyota

LOL... More than you can afford pal.. Ok i knew someone was going to say it anyways

Only reason i would even think about it would be if i had some crazy valve springs or something, but even IJ said he had some stiff springs and it wasn't a problem. A high HP engine really shouldn't have any more drag on the cams than a stock engine, only difference would be the rate of speed...

Thats so much work, they would have to grind all the caps down, machine the valve cover surface, then line bore it and re-fit the cams, then you have to find shims thin enough to actually work with the new setup, and its really not worth it, good heads are cheap to come by. Not to mention if its...