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+1 for craigslist. I almost scored a brand new 0 miles factory 7mgte long block for $250, but i got a call right before i was off to pick it up saying he just sold it for $400 :(

no, thust washers control the in and out play of the crank. Bearings set your connecting rod to journal clearance, but if your crankshaft was machined or polished too much, worn beyond spec, or if your rod big ends are worn or oblong your oil clearance is going to be off. Large oil clearance...

I wouldnt mind the hose so much as long as they admitted to the mistake, but vac hoses all over the place... sounds more like a rushed job than a simple mistake. I had my car at the body shop recently and they somehow managed to break my headlight switch stalk, they wouldnt admit to it...

You might want to figure out why your oil pressure was so low. If it was caused by your excessively large oil clearances on your bearings you are going to want to find out why your clearances are so large. A direct replacement of bearings isnt going to do much good if the problem lies somewhere...

I dont like the slammed look myself, i think the fender gap you have right now is PERFECT. I would leave the wheels silver if i were you, makes it look cleaner and doesnt stand out as much (which i like).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ48NQjouoE The most bad ass one yet:biglaugh:

Be careful, sometimes its just better to leave in in there than it is to risk breaking the spark plug in the head or worse stripping the threads out of the aluminum.

You had your engine machined while it was still together and then didnt bother to even clean it before putting it back in the car?

The steering knuckles have these plastic caps on the back of them that hit a bump stop on the control arm when you are all the way at lock. They tend to break, wear out, or fall off with time, and if they are missing whenever you go over a bump at full lock it will make all kinds of popping and...

What i dont understand is how you can tell your parents about how you got teabagged hahaha

Your dye should not be changeing colors at all unless you have a combustion leak into your cooling system aka head gasket problems. That is unless you sucked up coolant into the tester

You are supposed to have a slight vacuum on the crankcase to pull out any gasoline vapors, but it shouldn't be excessive. Your idle should change slightly when you pull the dipstick out or remove the oil cap. Check to make sure your pcv routing is proper, but what you are describing is normal

First off, fill up your coolant overflow. I still dont hear anything out of the ordinary in the video, if you hear something knocking it doesnt mean its a rod. If you think you are going to be able to build your 7m up with forged pistons and upgraded rods with $500 you are seriously mistaken...

Just use copper spray on gaskets that either have a questionable sealing surface or things you know you wont be removing anytime in the future

Rod bearings don't squeak when they go out. From what i could hear in the video i don't hear anything more than what could be valve train noise. Dont be stupid and pull your motor apart only to find nothing wrong with it, i have seen people do that.

Ive got the Bose headphones from a couple years ago, best sounding headphones ive ever heard, and the noise canceling is a plus.

What kind of rings did you use? Did you have the cylinders all honed to specs? Were the rings gapped and positioned properly? Also, what kind of valve stem seals were used/were they replaced with the rebuild?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22

I have read the numerous threads on electric vs stock fans and nobody ever really provided proof in either case of which is better. It was mostly just the older guys saying stock is better based on what they know and then the rest following along. I have no proof of either myself, so i wont say...

The hardest part about this is finding a machine shop that understands it