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Stone set FTW. You pay less, because you get what you need instead of all the other random gaskets the felpro set comes with. Not to mention Stone gaskets are up to par with the Toyotas, when comparing them i can see no difference in quality.

Yes, i already viewed the sticky about head gasket thickness selection, but i have a few more questions. I had my bock deck machined, approximately .003" was taken off I had my head machined for a second time, totalling in about .006" taken off. This leaves me with .009" (.2286mm)...

Are you SURE? The OEM gives a spec for bore size minus piston size, why would probe or any other piston manufacturer do anything different when it comes to giving a clearance spec.? I cant understand why Probe would give a spec for Bore-Piston size= X, and X/2=.004". Just doesnt make sense to...

This is where i am confused, because Toyota defines the piston clearance (or oil clearance whatever you want to call is, there is a clearance there and oil needs to go there, so i guess it is an oil clearance) how you did, saying the bore needs to be .00X larger than the piston, and that number...

Sorry to bring this back up, but now im confused " Quote: Originally Posted by Mr. Y View Post It's distance between piston and wall on each side. E.g. piston is 84mm, "piston-wall clearance" is 0.1mm, bore diameter should be 84.2mm "...

"Since little or nothing is known about magneto reluctance, diagnosing faults can be a problem" LOL

Added to the list... -Block bored/honed .040" over -Block(yes, with the timing cover ;)) and head decked under 30RA -.040" over Probes -Balanced/polished crank -Re-sized/balanced rods Now for bling

So cylinder 2 gets no spark but cylinder 5 continuously gets a strong spark? How are you testing for spark? You must make sure cylinder 5 plug is in and the wire is attached when you are testing cylinder 2.

did he just flat out forget to shift or what holy christ

Run a jumper from the B+ terminal to the spade terminal on the starter, if it starts up you know you need to do the relay mod. The starter connector doesn't need to be spliced, it actually slides right onto the terminal of the relay, and then you need to buy the female spade crimp connector and...

WARNING: DO NOT use the flexplate screws with the flywheel even if they are long enough to thread in. The flywheel screws are longer and will not loosen themselves or cause damage to your crank. Also, only use Toyota genuine or ARP flywheel screws, people have had issues with old or generic...

A little play in the turbo is normal, it uses a journal bearing, so there is always going to be an oil clearance. You need to fix the leak though.

your harness and ECU year needs to match (yellow or gray) whatever the year of the body is. beside that, you can mix and match any mechanical engine parts, as long as you use the sensors from the same year as the harness. But you cannot use 7mge wiring for a 7mgte either.

Higher compression pistons so keep that in mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-xLtTYoPfw bahahaha

From other peoples stories, unless you want to do some work on smashing your firewall in you're not going to be able to put the head on after the studs, the way it is set up, you need to get the head close to the block, slide it back and then down. It is one thing when your engine is on a stand...

I never overheated when i had a pretty bad BHG. Also remember that if your temp sensor is not submersed in coolant it isnt going to get a proper reading, so if you are getting air in the system this is a possibility too. Is your oil milky? If so stop driving it now as you are going to do major...

The washers put more tension on the spring, which holds the valve from relieving pressure until it reaches a higher pressure

When you had the block machined, did you have the rear timing cover machined with it? If not that could definitely happen, not to mention it could explain your head gasket sealing issues.

Yep, that is normal.