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You can unbolt the coolant union on the turbo and make sure its not blocked up in there, then run some stiff wire through the metal hard lines and make sure those are clear as well. BTW that is not the type of hose you want to be using in the cooling system, especially on the turbo.

I thought you broke a plastic end tank, which would be very difficult to fix, but if its just a core tube its not as big a deal. If i were you i would do what someone suggested earlier and try pinching off that core, one less tube isnt going to really hurt your cooling ability. If you know how...

Those epoxy radiator tank repair things dont work for shit either. Honestly theres no point in trying to get it repaired, especially if its the plastic tank thats broken. Just find a local with a used stock radiator for cheap, flush it out real well and put that in until you can afford to upgrade.

Anyways you made a mistake, its not like you can go back. Tear it apart and repair the headgasket, but be prepared for the worst. Things dont always work out how you think they will, you could put it back together and end up with rod knock (basically complete engine failure). When coolant gets...

Even with the machine shop washing it, i would have washed it myself, they go through so many jobs that they are hardly meticulous with every engine. I would never take a block strait from a shop and assemble it without cleaning it myself

Does anyone have any opinions on this? I really dont think it is anything to be worried about, but i can always get a flexhone tool and simply go through the cylinders with the flex hone. My only worry there is getting the proper surface finish for the chrome rings. Any advice would be helpful...

You have to either remove the clutch fork or unbolt the pressure plate through the access port on the bell housing. If you don't, you will never get it separated.

I dont like my Megans very much at all, they are not balanced properly front to rear. I run my fronts full stiff and my rears full soft at all times to get it close. Not to mention i have had them about a year or year and a half and my left rear strut is showing signs of leakage.

2jz's get rod knock?! lol

Napa blanks and OEM pads, never look back. Enjoy good stopping, quiet braking, and long lasting brakes.

Make sure you factor in the quantities you need, such as pistons and rods, looks like you only put the price down for one. Also, dont forget to order the correct bearings, they are sold in 5 different sizes

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97552

If you expect to meet girls at school here, think again buddy lol... Any remotely good looking girl has a trail of 5-6 guys right behind. You will find after a few months your standards will have dropped significantly lol

Im currently going to UTI Avondale, i have been here over a year, and still have a bit left. Are you currently active at Avondale? Your first post says you are going to start July of 09, but that date has already passed so i am a little confused. I have my thoughts about the school. but i could...

Im sorry, but this thing is just awesome.... you can check out their series of random WATCH IT SHRED clips where they shred random objects... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aja7gcgRMJU

I recently got my block back from the machine shop, it hadn't been cleaned, so i took the task of cleaning it. I used a pressure washer and cleaned it thoroughly, and applied wd40 immediately after i stopped spraying water. I scrubbed it with dish soap, rinsed and did the same thing. After this...

I am aiming for under 400HP, do you still think it is necessary to round off the edges and such on these pistons or is this only for high horsepower applications?

Thanks for the clarification, I contacted Probe themselves and got the same answer, not sure where all this talk about clearance per side started but i now know how it is measured.

Location: Purpose: No clue...