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After some research i found that the upgraded oil pump lines including the arz line is overkill and i dont really need it. If there was proof anywhere that the oiling system flows more than the stock pipe can handle i might be convinced. Anyway thanks for the comments, heres some more pics.

some updates:) Finally. Operations completed -Installed crank, rods, pistons -Check crank end play -Check rod side clearance -Install and shim oil pump -Shim cooler relief -install ARP studs/ Cometic MLS/ Cylinder head

This is a pretty common complaint, no crank when hot. Usually caused by high resistance in the starter trigger wire in the harness. Theres a thread on here about adding a relay to fix the problem. Next time it doesnt start, run a jumper from the positive terminal to the trigger spade on the...

If the bores are original size and have no out of round or taper, go with std size probes. They come .003" oversize from stock, so it gives your machinist room to fit them properly. Depending on your power goals you can figure out what piston to wall clearance you need. Check out this thread...

I am just finishing up a rebuild on my 7m, and i had a couple questions. There are two hex socket oil gallery plugs on the front and back of the engine block, does anybody know the torque spec for these? I have searched the TSRM and cannot find the spec for these plugs. I made them tight with a...

Supposedly the GTE pump is higher volume, and is an upgrade for an NA motor. Just dont use an NA pump on a GTE

Can anybody give me ANY advice? my entire build is waiting on this and i have no idea who else to ask, its almost like i have a miracle block that does something no other iron block in the world has ever done or something.

See how the rod closest to the camera has the two marks on the cap, and one on top above the big end, and the one further away doesnt? The marks go towards the front.

Definitely shoot my a PM when you get closer to coming, we can meet up and i can give you some suggestions on apartments and such, there's definitely some places you dont want to go!

You cant clean the timing belt, if you get oil or grease on it, it is considered junk and you should replace it, unless you want it to go bad much faster than it normally would

Adjuster, any reason you torqued the head studs down to 103ft lbs? Seems high, as ARP specs are 80-85ft lbs (depending on the date they were made). More than the strength of the ARP studs, i would be worried about bore distortion. Also, if you used a torque plate, you should mention the gasket...

how much pressure can you really get at around 300rpm?

What would make E85 work? I just did a final cleaning on the block, scrubbing it really good with gasoline first, and finishing off with lacquer thinner. Did nothing to the stains on the cylinders. Has nobody seen this before?

Measure it, and make sure its in specs as well. Make sure its round and has no taper.

After Luckily it was not my fault, and it impacted at just about one of the strongest points of the car, didnt even break the foglight! These cars are beastly, especially considering i rammed into this guys wheel/suspension at about 30mph.

Damn! Is it safe to take the valve guides down that much?

What all was done with the engine internals? Stock rebuild? Looks good. PLEASE make sure those fan wires are fused! The heat is bad enough around here, dont need something else encouraging a car fire haha

pressure test and flush it before you use it, if it holds i wouldn't hesitate to use it, its a simple repair. You can rent a pressure tester from autozone for free by the way.

Ive had a leaking tstat housing before, just small remnants of coolant drips coming off the bottom, but a very light smear of silicone on the rubber gasket was more than enough to fix that. I have seen people smother it on there, why, i dont know.