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Depends on the design of the cat, if it's a single or multi stage. It's not going to "steal" power as on a dyno the difference between a cat and a test pipe is within the margin of error of the dyno...unless it's clogged of course. NOx is handled through EGR for the most part though.

lol, they won't fit, and the back seats are comfy as hell if the front seats are all the way forward and the hatch is open (need leg and head room lol)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AT&P=9 Start there. You might have tranny codes and not know it. It also can step you through the troubleshooting process. Same thing some shop is going to do (or they'll just rebuild it and charge you a ton).

Compression test and block test are in order. If it's not the headgasket, it will soon be if it's overheating, so you'll have to find the issue. Could be as simple as a shit t-stat.

Once a composite headgasket leaks, it won't reseal from being retorqued. The sealing rings move and it's fucked, head's gonna have to come back off...

Compression test... Trouble shooting is step 1, 2, 3... you're trying to skip ahead, stop screwing around and get the compression test done.

Considering it's their "race" transmission I'm pretty sure it's intended for such things...

Yep, that's why the arz kits kick ass, they're huge and lighter than stock.

Um... wrong. Break in is NOT simply the resins boiling out of the pads (though that's a large part of it), it's the pad depositing friction material onto the rotor.

Incorrect, try again...

Sounds fucking awesome, leave it like that, cops won't care since it's a domestic :rofl: Gotta find some Dodge forums to show it too and see the reactions :evil2:

This has been predicted for a long time. I don't see any danger in it....yet.

Not difficult, but you're paying for their experience and the warranty... You could get it rebuilt cheaper somewhere else, but I doubt they'd stand by it under that abuse.

That's NOT a drain, that's PRESSURE. You're flooding the turbo and dumping oil out the exhaust!

Won't have the warranty, which would be the main reason to get it at that power level...

Finding someone that will finance a car that old and for that price...yeah, doubt it.

IIRC the disk is usable, BUT it's smaller and definately not ideal...

Maybe the early 7M's with the early crank, but still, it's a straight six which are some of THE smoothest engines known as they are harmonicly neutral. I don't recommend solids ever, since they have a nasty habit of loosening fasteners and overall just being bad for the vehicle in general...

How so? Both are inline six engines with the same firing order...

Would be easier to make a custom flywheel.