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Yeah, don't mess with the surrounds they like to break LOL More than likely it's never been moved from it's current position, so it might takes some persuasion...

...and it still needs apex seals. No wing no care :P

Push that lever down and then push/pull on the steering wheel.

See a lot wrong with that...

Mine was a DD and mine lasted a few years (it's still in perfect shape but the car is parked). What did you do to it? :aigo:

Yes there is a difference.

LOL, my point was it may be cheaper to repair than to replace the shell.

Depends who you know, shells are getting rare...

Idle weird from brakes, yep, sounds like the brake booster (or a charging system issue from the brake lights). Pull (or pinch if you have the special pliers) the vac line that goes to it and see if it still does it. To test the master, push the pedal and hold it. Does it slowly go down?

pics?

Here's the new link I think: http://www.jcwhitney.com/radiator-corrosion-inhibitor/p2000879.jcwx# Thoughts JJ?

my money is on rod knock...

Not to mention pedestrian crash regulations...

LOL, it was an error, they fixed it ;)

The motor is going to be temporary folks, I get the impression he doesn't want to rebuild the already rebuilt motor...

Well, you'll have to remove the front cover for it to be machined.

Just the front cover can be machined if you find a GOOD machinist.

None available through aftermarket, and yes, they're VERY thin when new. 1mm is the minimum thickness for them. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=41

LOL, true, but compared to running an LSD, there isn't a contest.

It's like having a spool, unless you're trailering the car to events you're a danger to other people on the road...