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If the head or block wasn't leveled in the surfacing machine and it was leaning forward/backward it would tilt the cam gears and make the belt want to ride forward/backwards whatever the case

The crankshaft timing belt gear has two guides staked onto it. There is an older and a revised version of the gear, the new one has more "stakes" in it, basically a punch holding it on. The older ones have been known to break off, that might be your problem. Also, if your machinist machined your...

It might have a thread sticking out when bottomed out but that doesnt really mean anything. Measure the thickness of your head (from the deck surface to the valve cover sealing surface), then add the shim thickness and you should be relatively close to 116mm (stock head height)

Wow you seriously had custom bolts made for your engine stand? I cant believe its this hard for all of you to find these, im glad my local hardware store had plenty of different lengths in the same diameter and thread pitch.

Never had an issue with grade 5, its all ive used for 3 different engines now, have had a fully assembled one on the stand with those bolts for a month now.

Hes just looking for pics from the assembly line, which i would be interested in seeing as well!

I have a Cometic MHG and it works just fine, but for all other gaskets go with Toyota IMO

Toyota is the best for gaskets hands down, but Toyota is more expencive. If you can go with Toyota, do that.

Just loosen the screws and rotate it until all your readings fall into spec

The rear seal has a retainer, which is part of the pan rail. If you take the retainer off you have to pull the pan, but if youre just replaceing the seal, you pull the seal out and press a new one in.

Cant really blame the rear oil seal without knowing where its leaking, figure out where the oil is coming from first and go from there, theres hundreds of places oil could leak. I doubt you would have a perfectly fine main seal one second and have it pour oil out the next

Does the noise go away in 4th gear? If theres no change in direct drive, its more likely just your input shaft bearing... My w58 makes a little bit of whirring noise in nuetral with the clutch engaged, but seems to be pretty normal. Not sure how loud yours is.

Is there no spec sheet for these pistons anywhere?

so fresh and so clean

There are hardly any STOCK SIZE or STD SIZE parts in a 7m. Ever heard of select fit? Pistons, rods, crank, bearings, cylinder bore, everything is select fit and comes in about 5 different sizes of each. There is no one STD size so it seems he is trying to figure out if he can use the "std size"...

:biglaugh:

Just coat the inner lip of the seal with assembly lube so it doesn't burn up when you start up.

Its coming from the crankcase. If you have excessive blowby past your piston rings you will get a lot of oil in those places, but even with a normal working engine you will have some oil in all those places. Sounds like yours is fine.

Make sure when you install your gaskets they are completely DRY, same for the mating surface. You don't want oil on these surfaces as it can make them leak. I usually make a quick wipe with a rag that has some brake clean and wipe off the rubber gasket just to get any oil off. I am using allen...