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Check the ECU connectors...same thing happened to me, would start up for a few seconds then die, turned out one of the connectors wasnt pushed in all the way to the ECU itself. Also, had no check engine light at all, even with engine off, until it was pushed it in.

That would be cool if you would give me that bosche one. Maybe i can figure out a way to quiet it down, but im not too concerned with that right now as i really just need a way to prevent my surger problems. Only issue i have with aftermarket is finding a recirculation type that is affordable...

I have been having problems with compressor surge from the first time i fired up this new engine. I did a 7mge to 7mgte swap, so i have nothing to compare to. I will start with a list of mods.. 7mgte stock turbo elbow- 3"dp Gutted CAT, 2.5" catback Probe pistons/Cometic HG to keep stock...

Theres a screw under the ign switch area, one by the drivers seat going towards the center, and two under the ash tray. After that, pull the rearmost part up(right behind the shifter) and pop those clips up, then you can pull the rest strait back

CPS and coilpack connectors tend to get brittle and make a bad connection. Make sure they are both tight, and wiggle them around a little, then see if it fires up

Looks like the vac line that goes from the intake vacuum bracket to the hardline running across the front of the motor for the power steering idle up

Ya the timing cover gasket does seal coolant for the main water pump passage, but its not extremely likely it would just be leaking there. I would make 100% sure that is where you are leaking before you go pulling the head and pan just to do that gasket. Get a cooling system pressure tester, it...

Just to give you an idea... I did the swap recently too, the bottom inter cooler mounting tabs line up with holes in the rail on the bottom there. All other mounting holes require a bracket that i didnt have. Just using the bottom mounts, the inter cooler is pretty sturdy. The oil cooler needs...

Bearings look to be worn pretty evenly, but the one you really want to look at is the upper half, that half takes more of the load.

in that case, just cut the throttle body line off leaving a little bit sticking out, then you can cap it off and not have to deal with soldering or any of that

If it was me i would just break off the throttle body coolant line, remove the unit from the exhaust side, repair the leak and the hole where the throttle body line went, install it and never look back. Of course, dont forget to plug off the port on the intake manifold. Coolant to the throttle...

Those bearings dont look bad at all, did you dry start it though, before cranking it over to prime the oil? Brand new bearings shouldn't look like that, but they're definitely not terrible. I probably would have done a little bit of diagnosis before simply tearing all down again, but hey...

I had my block hot tanked, OEM steel plugs and all. They looked good so i didnt touch a single one, no problems so far. I wouldnt worry about it, i left them in the same reason you would...I am more likely to screw something up than help it and that front plug is NOT one you want blowing out..

Going to need some more info... Are you looking to purchase a stock midpipe? If so you need to ask in the Want to Buy forum

If your timing case was leaking, you would be leaking oil not coolant. Unless of course it is cracked or if the water pump is leaking. You said you checked the line that goes to the back of the motor, are you sure it isnt leaking there? Its got a flange and two nuts that hold it ot the rear...

I am running my water temp gauge on the houisng just after the thermostat and it shows the same readings i got before when i ran it before the thermostat, i dont see why it should make any different, a thermostat transfers heat through it even if there is little to no flow. And yes, before you...

That will work, just be sure everything will clear. If you have a prosport standard (non peak/hold) the sending units are pretty large and might hit the block when you try to get it in there. http://prosportgauges.com/performance-oil-pressure-sender.aspx

you have to get an adapter regardless, all the ports are 1/8BSP and most aftermarket senders are 1/8NPT. The difference isnt much but i wasn't able to get my 1/8NPT adapter directly into the block. I recommend you get one of these...

^Either that or its blocked and hardly circulating at all. Take a temp gun to your upper hose and lower hose and find out what the real temperature is. If it is in fact boiling youre either too hot, dont have the proper coolant mixture or your system isnt holding pressure. The stock gauge isnt a...

Mine took about 3 and 1/2 months, he also gave it back to me dirty as can be, look like to took an angle grinder to something right next to it... Not to mention he charged me for checking the clearance on my oil pump shaft bearings and said they were good, only to find out they had about .004"...