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+1. Part that sticks out more goes towards the pressure plate.

Are you getting any noise or assist at all? Is the fluid churning in the reservoir?

Large line should be going directly from the reservoir to the pump, then the pressure line from the pump to the rack, then from the rack to the cooler, then from the cooler to back to the reservoir

Like others said you are probably just leaking oil out the flywheel bolt holes, which go all the way through, so nothing to worry about, but you should still do all your basic seals.

The #1 cam journal is what recieves the pressurized oil which flows through passages in the cams to lube all the other journals, so theres pressurized oil very close behind the seals

First pic is from the reservoir yes, second pic cant help you, third pic is the idle up valve. One port goes to filtered intake air, the other to a vac line, when you turn it opens up and allows the engine rpm to raise so it doesnt stall.

Well two of your 3 links take me to gmail, so cant help you there. About the bajo fitting though, your arrow is pointing at the return line. Actually the arrow is pointing to the pressure line after all, but it is a banjo fitting, you must be looking at the line above that which is the return

That blows. Takes a pretty hard hit to smash the front end up like that:( Good luck, unless the body and interior is otherwise immaculate i would think another shell is the best idea. For now you might as well get it driveable, like you say and just use it until you can afford something. So what...

Wow thats pretty crazy. Any idea how other bearings stand up to high hp? Curious about the popular bearing brands out there, especially OEM.What kind of power do you need to be making to even start worrying about these things?

You sure its burning it? Try topping it off again and run it again, see if it dissapears again. If you have an aftermarket cooler, maybe it was just filling up the system. Also make sure you wait about 5 mins after you shut off the motor to check the oil level.

Generally a bearing is a bearing... it shouldn't be contacting your crankshaft anyways. As long as its a decent company with tolerance standards you should be fine. TaiHo, ACL, NDC, Clevite, generally all reputable companies. Never heard of any of them having repeated failures when installed...

When i measured my Probe pistons they were all the same to the .0001" place.. so yes it is possible. No they are not going to be the same to the .xxxxxx" place but nobody measures that precisely. You could technically measure all your pistons and tell them what to make each bore in the engine...

The machine shop measured the pistons and they were all the same dimensions, therefore the bores are all the same dimensions, therefore theres no need to match anything as they are all exactly the same.

Should be good to go, line up the gaps properly and make sure the top ring is on top, second ring is second, as well as making sure the markings face UP, dont want to put a ring in upside down! If you didnt file your rings to each cylinder, check the rings in the cylinder they are going into...

for some reason i dont think you searched very hard, head gaskets are probably the #1 thoroughly covered topic on this forum. If you dont want to /cant go MHG, stock toyota or felpro with ARP studs is generally the way to go.

Just want to get rid of the high spots is whats important, without taking and material off everywhere else

Thanks for the advice, and i will upgrade in the future, i just figured i wasnt flowing enough yet to max out the stock valve. I will see how the Bosch one does and go from there. It kills me to hear my fresh turbo screaming for mercy!

It depends how bad it is, if just the keyway is slightly bad and the actual size of the snout (measured with a mic) is the same on the end as it is where the crank pulley doesnt ride, you might be able to get away with it being welded. They supposedly put a carbon key in there, weld it up and...

Take a close up of the key and keyway of the front slot in the snout

If the keyway is actually deformed and its not just the picture, its probably not worth it to try and save it. Had one crank like that, the snout was .015" smaller than it should be, keyway was bad, and the threads for the pulley bolt were stretched out/widened. Obviously, even if the keyway is...