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Dude you measured your oil pressure the first time with a mech oil pressure gauge and now you are reading the stock gauge again, of course its going to be different. Like stated its not accurate. Use your mechanical gauge for any diagnosis, the gauge in the car is for reference to see if you...

Even if this is the case the end result is Conventional oil= No leaks Synthetic= Leaks I would stick with conventional, theres nothing wrong with it. Go for an Xw30 and you want the lowest first number you can ex. 0w30. Im not sure if they go that low with conventional though, i personally use...

Theres a lot of info on here about the 7m/6m crank differences. Theres really no reason for a 7m crank if you are on a budget, the 6m is much easier to come by. Look around on the forums here, they pop up quite frequently in the for sale section. Any 6m/7m crank will work. You will have to...

Dont run pure coolant, its not a good conductor of heat, it needs water mixed in.

Your oil pressure is within specifications. You 3000 RPM pressure is just a hair low, you dont have anything to worry about.

Yup looks like a bhg! Make sure you get all the old gasket material off the block and head, check both for warpage and make sure you don't get any of the old pieces of gasket down into any of the oil holes in the block or into the cylinder bores. Its a good idea to put some rags in the bores...

Every stock piston i have removed from a factory 7m the pins were hard to push out (impossible by hand without hammering) without being heated a little. NPR replacement and my Probe pistons the pins glide in and out no problem at room temp

You cant remove it, you have to have it unless you want to be dumping coolant out on the road and sucking up air into your system. You can custom make your own, just make sure it has the same overall volume as you need room for coolant to fill and empty in the reservoir.

Is there oil in it?

I just looked through the workshop manual for the '10 Fusion with 2.5L and theres no TSB's or any symptom descriptions with what you describe, so its obviously not a problem that has been covered in the manual yet. I really wouldnt worry about it if i were you though. Wouldnt hurt to perform a...

Run it hard up to 4k but dont boost it is what people say. I wonder if they have owned a turbo'd car... Try as you wish but theres no way youre going to run it hard and not be in boost its not like theres a boost on off switch.

If you have a manual that's where the clutch master goes. I run all my wires through the hole/grommet Toyota made which is under the fender. All you gotta do is remove the drivers side wheel well and you have full access to it.

You can view the page at http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?129-Changing-oil-pump-shaft-bearings!-Easy-Pics

+1 You should really change the bearings while its apart, if it has Toyota bearings replace the bearings with OEM with the same number that is stamped on them

Dude if you can get it in gear at all with the engine running your clutch is moving independently of the flywheel=not stuck. Its dragging, but still releasing slightly, otherwise you would never be able to get it in gear unless you pushed the car up to exactly the right speed and then put it in...

LOL you obviously havent purchased any seals from Toyota, especially the rear main, I suppose.

I would use toyota gaskets there, thats one place you do not want leaking! Required pulling the head/timing belt etc to change

Take a pic of the port you used for your gauge, might be a ported vacuum port. What does your gauge read on decel/idle/WOT? Did you use the filter they supplied (im assuming its an electronic sender type?)

^ make sure he pays for a new timing belt if it got oil on it

No you dont have to drain the oil. Make sure you have a 1/8NPT to 1/8BSPT thread adapter if your gauge is 1/8NPT like most of them are. Sometimes you can get the NPT to thread in, but i was not able to get a gauge into my block until i got the adapter.