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Stick with stock pressure cap, you only risk blowing out weak hoses, a weak heater core, and popping out freeze plugs when you bump up the pressure. It allows for a higher boiling point of the coolant, but is not necessary on a street car.

Thats almost .003" clearance. Way too large for a standard rebuild. Part of your problem is using a STD size bearing in a stock block where you are supposed to use Toyota select fit bearings. I had mic'd a set of STD NDC bearings a while back, and they had a thinner center wall thickness than...

Go to lowes and get the 12 point kobalt 14mm deep well socket, fits just fine.

Thanks for the info, im probably going to end up with this radiator. You also need to fab something to secure the lower part of the shroud, correct?

Thanks for the info, im probably going to end up with this radiator. You also need to fab something to secure the lower part of the shroud, correct?

There's what it looks like pretty much in case you weren't sure. Anybody know the torque that should be used on it? I searched for a while and ended up just making it "tight" on my engine. Just don't know how tight you can go before you risk cracking something.

Ya unfortunately you have to remove the head unless youre looking for future leaks. Not to mention the pan should be removed as it seals against that cover as well. Who knows what shavings have gotten into your motor as well. You cant lift the head and put it back down, once water and oil gets...

I was thinking about going with an upgraded oil cooling system and i havent been able to find any info on using a water to oil oil cooler. A lot of passenger cars seem to use this from the factory, my MR2 that i used to have had a sandwich plate under the filter for just this. Also, most heavy...

I used cotton balls in the three large oil drain passages, you might be able to use ear plugs or anything like that, just make for damn sure you will be able to get whatever it is you put in there OUT and that it cannot fall down. You want to try to avoid getting stuff in the cooling passages...

How often do you guys have someone rideing in your back seat anyways haha i have yet to find anyone that can really fit

Only reason torque sticks work is because of the hammering effect of impact guns, a torque stick on a breaker bar or ratchet would be useless. (they are pretty useless on impact guns as well, but thats besides the point)

Are you guys talking about extensions as in increasing leverage or extension meaning 90 degrees from the torque wrench? Im pretty sure OP is talking about length extension so he can get into the recessed area: not this kind of extension:

Are you sure? I think its just a remanned OEM crankshaft

Having extensions wont affect the final torque , they do twist but your torque wrench wont click until there is the set torque on the actual bolt

So i was looking into the idea of going with a bypass oil filter for some extra protection. Currently my lubrication system is stock with the stock filter head and cooler. I had a few questions. First off, i was thinking about routing my system like this: Remove the oil cooler relief piston...

The hole on the right is for the pump hold down, leave the other ones alone they are not used. If you need any pics of anything lmk i have a bunch

That first one actually goes into the hole right beside the lower radiator hose connection on the rear timing cover pointed up/rearwards

Ya a lot of things are described as direct replacement but in reality are nowhere close, just havent seen any real proof yet that the Mishimoto fits with the shroud

Does anybody have any pictures of the new Mishimoto design with the fan shroud in place? Does it all fit?

Bump! Any more info on Koyo fitment? Does clutch fan and shroud fit? ( i know it doesnt have the lower shroud tabs, but does the shroud fit at all)