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Im having a hard time understanding how you can have 5-9PSI of boost in the manifold of a gas engine with a throttle plate at idle, please explain, im no expert here! How much boost pressure would you need pre-throttle plate to be able to get that much air into the engine at idle? The more i...

Vacuum holds the stock valve open, so at idle it would be wide open. If you want an aftermarket BOV, just recirculate it back into the intake to avoid any problems.

Wow was the head re-welded and machined? Looks clean, but the combustion chambers dont look stock and some of them look different than others, as well as some coolant passages misshaped.

Does coolant pour out of the oil pan as you pour it into the radiator? A member on here had the same problem recently, and it turned out that there was a problem with the freeze plug on the front of the block. If that is missing youre going to drain coolant directly into the crankcase

Wanted to bring this back up. Been reading about using a scrificial anode in the cooling system to prevent galvanic corrosion of alluminum radiators and such. Wondering if anyone has used it or has any opinions? I have a new Koyo aluminum radiator (properly insulated from ground) with Zerex GO5...

+1 please don't get nuts from the hardware store... You're dealing with engine internals here, these things are under huge amounts of stress and having the proper torque on them is critical. Get the right nuts from ARP and use the proper lube and torque specs.

I would take it apart and get the whole deal machined. You will regret it later if you dont. Not to mention this gives you the chance to go over the bottom end and make sure it was done right, as well as use a MHG. No point in doing a full rebuild and using a composite gasket. Check the head for...

Turn the engine off and grab a hold of the fan, and try to rock it back and forth. If the fan moves around you have worn bearings in the pump. Also, check to make sure your crank pulley bolt is tight.

Remember to lay the breaker bar down on the drivers side lol. Engine turns clockwise so if you put it on the other side it would swing up. Crank pulley bolt is regular threads, just probably really tight.

Unless you convert to speed density you run the chance that you will have those problems like mkiiichip already said. Many people still do it without any modification and dont have any major issues, but do you really want to reduce your performance just for the sound? Just leave it recirculated...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GH1po8kP9c8 Thought i would throw this in here. I know its from gates therefore biased, but shows some cool info.

I have the pro sport analog wide band gauge and i like it. Its a pretty good deal considering it comes with everything you need. The warning feature on it is pretty useless considering every time you decelerate it maxes out lean. I have the warning function turned off on mine so i don't get a...

Thats what my cam saddles looked like. I used some scotch brite to lightly take down the high spots. Then i plastigaged the cams to make sure they were in spec clearance wise, they were a little wide. I sanded the flat part of the caps down little by little, bringing the clearance tighter and...

Very nice work! Cool to see people doing different things with these cars 20+ years after they came out!

Any layer that has an impression in it should have viton on it, the flat bare metal layers dont

Im not expert but that routing doesn't seem too effective. Whenever you aren't on boost the throttle body port is just going to pull air directly from the accordion hose. At least with the stock setup, any air drawn from the accordion hose gets pulled directly over the valve covers and draws...

You can see mine here. TurboSmart dual port valve (blocked off the atmosphere port, because i had massive backfires between shifts) now it is just full recirc. Was getting surge with the stock valve, so i had to upgrade.

Does it run rough and then the oil pressure light come on? If the idle drops real low, the pump wont be spinning fast enough to create enough pressure to switch the oil pressure switch. If the oil pressure light comes on and then it runs rough that is another story!

Fuel cut is just based on flow, so PSI is irrelevant. Depending on all the variables of nature (altitude, temperature, humidity etc) and the mods you have you will hit fuel cut at different pressures.

Turns out it is somehow a heater core problem. I bypassed the heater core and stopped getting air in the system. System stays purged and works perfectly. I havent had a chance to pressure test the heater core yet, its summer here in az almost and heat is the last thing i need right now. I will...