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If it was loose, pull it off and check the key way before just tightening it down. Get a new key if the key way is still OK, and a new pulley bolt if possible, then torque to 195 ft lbs. If left like that it can/will destroy your crank like stated if it hasn't already! Also check the keyway in...

Little update... New Koyo Radiator Got some new shoes:) Also, installed a hallman manual boost controller, and set it to around 10psi, been having fun with it!

He is talking about the little hole at the bottom of the timing cover, where the rear timing cover and front timing cover meet.

I would like to see as well, i have two different types of dipsticks, both of which are hard to read.

I just installed mine. You have to pull the inner metal ring out of the rubber piece, as well as chesel away all the rubber, but leave the outer metal ring in place, then you epoxy the brass bushing in that place. If you look at the installation instructions Billy posted in his thread you will...

From what i understand, the block off plate is on the exhaust side, by the exhaust manifold, so there is no need to block off the other port as it only leads to the back of the head. I am pretty sure it is supposed to be like that.

Oh I see, you were talking about the Siamese cylinders, I thought you were still talking about the water jacket on the intake side.

What do you mean? I have a 7m block right here and the water jacket surrounds each cylinder except for between cylinders, small opening at the top is only at the top, and directly beneath it is water jacket. And like Jeff said if you cut an inch off the top, you will see even water jacket on...

If you take a look into the 7m block you will see the water jacket is uniform around each cylinder (though not BETWEEN cylinders), the only difference is the ports for the coolant flow, doing virtually the same thing that the 1jz/2jz does only its a part of the block instead of the gasket.

Get in there with a prybar and start prying against all your ball joints and bushings etc. Make sure theres no movement between the ball/socket. Pull up and down on the tie rods/rock a wheel side to side to check them. Make sure your sway bar is tight and the endlinks are good etc.

You need to have the "filter" on there though, its designed to let air in and out at a certain rate otherwise the dashpot will move too freely. Theres instructions in the tsrm on how to test everything

Yeah, just the design. This is the only evidence i have found of someone messing with it, though i cant imagine why you would considering there had to have been a reason. http://www.supracarparts.com/info/?p=35

About your fan clutch question, yes the turbo clutch is different. NA's have a teal hub, turbos have a brown hub on the fan clutch. Going from an NA clutch to a turbo clutch is an upgrade from everything i understand.

Get a prybar in there and start looking for loose ball joints and bushings. Look real closely for bent parts. Did the pull start happening after you hit the curb?

I have read silicone is more prone to blowing off because it doesn't bond to the metal over time like the oem rubber hose would (think about when you remove an old hose and you have to "break it loose" before it slides off)

Get a good water temperature gauge and stop using the stock gauge which is very inaccurate would be my first tip. Install the aftermarket gauge sensor in the water neck around where the stock sensor is. When you talk about the pressure being gone after driving, it might be normal. Mine would...

Every HKS gasket Ive seen was very tight going onto the dowel pins, but my cometic went on very easily (still tight, just perfectly lined up). Not sure if its an HKS thing or not.

Unless they are very loose in there i doubt jb weld is going to do you any good, that stuff will break right off. If you do try it, make sure you get all oil etc off the end of the bolt so you increase your chances of it sticking.

Correct me if im wrong but cant you disable the loctite with heat?

Picture of the crank shows us virtually nothing. The bearing wear doesn't appear to be terrible, but if im not mistaken there is some copper showing. Regardless of bearing condition they ALWAYS should be replaced with a rebuild. They are a wearing part and would be like putting an engine back...