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Have not done that, but the heater core ports are not blocked, the heater core is bypassed, so coolant still flows, just through a hose not a heater core. Stock gauge was completely replaced. If i had the stock gauge still it wouldn't even move, because someone did some testing and the stock...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?77282-radiator-seem-credible&highlight=koyo+overheat Well i read all through that thread and a lot of the info there from very knowledgeable people seems to be contradictory to some of the info in this thread. Basically they are discussing that if...

Are those Tanabe springs?

just get an OEM off the wtb section if you are low on funds, and you plan to upgrade later. That way you dont have to worry about shitty parts, pipeing, or any of that crap

Jiggle the wiring accordion between the door and the body near the hinge while you try to move the window up/down. Might be a bad wire in that loom there, not too uncommon as that is where the wires are bending back and forth constantly.

I think you fail to see that your post makes no sense. Never seen a stock suspension or "coilover" that has a coil over a spring

I dont see how it could cause a rod knock, it must have been coincidence unless it was a defective batch which is highly unlikely (just cant say impossible) I have run that oil in my 7m, and im sure MANY others have without any effects.

"With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years...

Badass! Lovely car

So you tested it after you replaced the filter and it resolved the issue right?

1 and 1 (first two pics are correct) and the side with the markings (first pic) faces the front. One thing to keep in mind is bearing alignment tangs almost always go on the same side like they are in the first pic

I dont know how you did it lol. My temps start going up at idle. New fan clutch new shroud huge radiator...whole cooling system is brand new. I dont understand. Are you sure your gauge was accurate? Thats good to know, thank you

Thats what i was thinking too, but with the pressures this thing is reaching on the high side(gets high enough to shut the compressor off when idling long periods in direct heat) i would think temps would be higher than normal too. All i really dont know is, what a properly charged r12 system...

I understand its it going to be "hot". "Hot" could be anything from 100 deg to 1000+ deg. Seeing how R134a is said to run "higher pressures and temperatures", its my theory that my condenser is getting hotter with r134a than it would with r12, causing more heat to be expelled and pulled through...

I think you are talking about how it feels between accel/decel, lik eyou can feel it jerk as if there is a lot of play in the drivetrain. This is pretty much normal for any manual trans car as its a direct link between the engine and wheels, so you feel all the play thats between anything...

I have the two auxiliary fans behind the radiator (converted from the single aux fan) but no condenser fan in front of the condenser. I know which fan you are talking about, but since my car is originally an NA Manual trans car, it never did come with one from the factory. Also, supras that had...

Well i changed my thermostat to a 180 superstat. Also tested the OEM stat that i pulled out, and it was good going to full open after about 200-205 deg i believe. it runs cooler during normal driving but again at a standstill it continues to climb, just takes longer to get to the same temp. I...

Thats why i dont get what you are saying, all im saying is he should measure them individually(rods, crank and main bores) and compare to the manual to make sure the numbers stamped still match the actual measurement that number represents

What do you mean? Measure journal size, match to chart to get "mark" number, measure rod big end, match to chart, add mark numbers from chart and get bearing mark number. Doing this for each journal separately of course.

Arent all the manufacturers doing this nowadays too? I found out on my 7m that its best just to measure everything and not use the stamped numbers on the engine when changing the bearings. Measure the rod big end, crank pin size, look it up in the chart and figure out what bearing you need. That...