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If you arent in it for performance, just replace it with a stock filter.

Theres no reason to get rid of your EGR really unless youre going for a high hp build where emissions are of no concern, and you have tuned the car to run without it. But anyways since you plan to block it off, what hvyman was saying is that on jdm 7m's (no egr from the factory, and different...

And I apologize if I came off as a douche that wasnt my intent, reading over my response it really sounds like it. But I think we should narrow down what the OP's problem really is before he replaces anything or it could end up being a costly repair in the end when it doesn't need to be.

You also need to watch your fuel pressure as you go WOT and it leans out, to make sure your pressure isn't dropping off.

How exactly did you come to the conclusion that its the oil pump? OP's problem might not even really be a problem and for all we know he could be having electrical issues with the gauge. Changing the oil pump would probably be the last thing to do.

Are you using an actual vacuum gauge (not the dash gauge) and are you sure its plumbed into manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum? (make sure its not using a throttle body port to measure vacuum, make sure its coming directly off the manifold)

Attempted to use one in my 7m block, and couldn't even get the threads to catch. Ended up using a brass 1/8NPT to 1/8 NPT and got it to all fit into each other, though the threads aren't all perfectly right, it doesn't leak.

I have a Celsius 89+ climate control in my USDM supra, no problems. LHD though, so not sure if that really helps you at all.

Both great ideas thanks i will definately try these out!

LOL it gets into the 30's here in the early mornings, I dont see a need to suffer, not to mention I prefer everything on my car to function. I will see what I can do with sockets but I'm afraid of damaging the thing worse than it already is, I dont want to push inwards on it too hard as I could...

Well one of my heater core tubes (the outlet one on the drivers side) is crushed from a long time ago when I used pliers to remove the hose:3d_frown:. It's not terrible but it's not round anymore at the end and I think it might be the source of my problems. Everytime I hook up the heater core I...

Cool good to know. I noticed that when I replaced mine as well, they fit over the shaft perfectly fine before pressing them in, but once I did the shaft would no longer fit and the bearing was slightly out of round. I ended up cutting the bearing down, but by hand, and it eventually fit nicely...

Thanks for the info i had never heard of that before, in fact most people have seemed to reccomend cutting the shaft instead of the bearings, my apologies for the misinformation as well. Why is it a bad idea to do so?

If you have it all put together i would just measure the bearing ID (both) and then get the shaft machines smaller.

Make sure if you take material off the bearings themselves you take it off the inside diameter not the outside, it relies on a press fit to stay in place and wont stay in as tight if you remove material from the outside. I was able to use a light sand paper to take down the ID of the bearing...

Thats a common problem when replacing the oil pump shaft bearings. You are going to want to measure the ID of the bearings and either take material off the bearings (easiest) or get the shaft turned down to a smaller size to get the correct clearance.

I think that everyone feels the way they grew up is the proper way. Things are changing at a fast pace, and this generation of kids is going to grow up talking about the good ol days when all you had was a computer and the internet.

When you say block what exactly are you talking about? Block= bare block, shortblock= lower engine; pistons rods crank etc, long block=shortblock+head

I installed the TXV myself, and the sensing bulb is clamped tightly to the stock location on the suction line and properly covered with the foam packing material. Besides, wouldn't a txv that is open more than it should be cause a drop in high side pressure?

Maybe i wasn't clear enough, but the system used to be R134A, i converted the system back to R12 and it is now R12. Before i start trying to upgrade the system I really just want to know whether or not there is something wrong with it. Trust me I would be happy if the thing blew 50 degrees all...