HKS Racing Type II, and it uses the exact same body as the SSQV. The cover, piston (single instead of the SSQV's dual), and actuator body on the back are different. I also have a knock off of it that works fine (also it's no longer made by HKS).
It's leave the perches at the highest level personally, since the eibach springs already lower the car.
It's actually a "retention" ring IIRC and they use different pliers than snap rings. Normal snap ring pliers will break on those...
Ditto.
FIPG isn't called for in this application. Also, make sure you follow the torque specs as there are bolts and studs and they have different torque specs in the TSRM.
Let's see, bigger turbo, fuel, ECU, and some internal work. Then you have the normal BPU's of front mount and exhaust. The rest isn't important power-wise. Do the same to a supra and you'd end up with the same power, just without an AWD delivery system, ability to actually drive the car hard...
EGR code is because it's not detecting the proper temp, if it's running like shit and the timing is way off from the CPS being installed wrong it's a possibility that the EGR code will go away once it's fixed.
THIS^^ Aftermarket rods come with ARPS usually, the ones for our cars are for the factory rods and they must be resized (they should be checked over by a machine shop anyway).
There's a reason they're blocked off, it's a calibration. If I could find the postings by jetjock on this it would explain that it's a bad idea to jack with it...
Typical of it not bonding properly to plastic or urethane because they're morons, and the edge chipping is again, from being morons lol
Dunno what's worse, that or having a partial respray with cheap clear that peels off in sheets...
I've seen a lot of car from there that were perfect...
What have I been saying all along? Oh, that's right, if it was 20 years ago we'd just say it's another moron old person behind the wheel that hit the gas instead of the brakes.
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