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Look for leaks, it shouldn't have been empty. Check the rubber plug behind the exhaust manifold, and the 2 elbows (one at the back of the head, one under the thermostat housing), those tend to get old and blow off or burst.

Probably not but that isn't going to help anything, and its not going to run if its a significant leak. Make sure there's water in the overflow, and don't remove the radiator cap until it has cooled down. How bad did it overheat? Make sure there's no leaks anywhere, was there any exhaust smoke?

Not too concerned about the looks of it, it provides and excellent place to take an oil sample. I may in the future go for a drain via valve cover or 3rd cyl head gasket allen bolt and add a smapling valve, but for now this will do.

Youre at least supposed to wait until the end so our shitty ground, cut and welded wrenches would have a chance at some appreciation :P

I was also reading that they need to be changed frequently because they begin to deteriorate, or form a "channel" for the oil to flow, reducing its effectiveness. Not too familiar with the particle count testing, I will have to look into that a little more. And in my defense, from all the info...

That depends really... What are your power goals? Stopper is said to be almost indestructible, but they come in a limited amount of thicknesses and are expensive. The bead style comes in a variety of brands and thicknesses and is said to be very tough, not to mention it is very affordable. I'm...

LOL. I do run one, but that doesn't stop me from questioning it's ability;) Wasn't too hot on the messy TP style. I guess the oil analysis results will tell me if any of it was worth it.

the rearmost allen plug has a bolt hole in it for a bracket that supports the heater hose. Not a huge deal if its missing.

Everyone is still forgetting the real question though...How much heat does the cooler really remove? Does the stock cooler actually make the difference between damaging oil temperatures in the engine and safe temperatures? JJ already established that there is a temperature drop from one side of...

short 14mm bolt with a 14mm nut jammed tight works just fine for me!

Just thought I would post up some pics of the Amsoil bypass kit I just installed tonight. Ended up splurging on the Amsoil kit because it came with a lot of useful quality fittings, as well as a decent length of hose. Bought the oil cap swivel adapter separate, makes it easy to remove the cap...

Im jealous of how clean that reservoir is!

Thank you Razoe I have always wondered what they were for and now it makes a lot more sense haha.

Not saying i completely disagree...but what ill effects would i see if i removed items such as these?

Check this out. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?76403-Car-not-starting-randomly-READ-THIS-%2830-Amp-Starter-Relay-Mod%29 Easy test- make sure the car is in park/nuetral and run a jumper wire from B+ directly to where the blue trigger connector goes. If the car cranks over...

Are you seriously saying that pieces of plastic flew off and broke his crank pulley lol

Makes more sense now, didnt take as much consideration for the temperature of the actual parts. But just because there is a high delta t across the cooler itself doesn't mean a significant amount of heat is being removed from the engine as a whole, correct? That would tell you that the heat...

Though it's reliable, is it effective? It probably increases oil warm up time marginally but after everything is fully warmed up does it do its job well of keeping the oil cool and up to what point? Those are things I would be interested in knowing, though i don't expect anyone to put the effort...

Really just an educated guess that it doesn't really work well. I don't think anyone is willing to devote that much time and effort to investigate the stock oil cooler system. The principle that it works off isn't ideal by any means and appears to be a half assed way of designing the system...

Depends on your idea of cool I guess. My engine will run upwards of 225 deg F in the AZ summers with AC on in slow traffic. New OEM GTE fan clutch and 10 blade fan, all shrouds in place and a KoyoRad. Sure 225 is still in the "safe" range but temps could definitely be better.