I cannot remember how exactly I did mine, but IIRC all I did was connect one side(comb switch side) of the fog light switch to common ground, and left the other side connected to the relay. Then run switched power (tapped of the cig fuse) to the other side of the relay, which is normally powered...
Yes.
Just kidding, but really, how do you expect anyone to help you when all you say is there is a vibrating noise ::dunce::
That is like me saying when I hit 23mph I feel a strange feeling, someone tell me what it is.
Provide some more info, be more detailed, maybe even a video...
The o ring just stretches over the gear. If you are trying to replace the internal seal which seals out oil from the inside of the CPS housing, that is when you have to remove the gear and pull the shaft through. Replacing the outer o ring should not take more than 10 seconds with the CPS out.
The crank should spin freely when completely installed with no rods/pistons. If its binding up with the thrust washers you have a serious problem, endplay should be between about .002" to .010". Make sure your thrust washers are stamped STD and are seates properly (oil channels should be facing...
Yes because there is more load on the engine than the computer thinks there is, the timing will be advanced farther than ideal wherever fuel is pulled out.
It was always my understanding that coolant temp input was required to drive the TCCS into closed loop. I wasn't aware that a supplemented ect was enough to allow it to enter closed loop, which is why I thought it failed safe to cold.
I assume theres a timer countdown before it starts to read...
Thats why I would figure it would fail cold- to maintain decent drivability across the board (cold or warm). Oh well, now I know.
A side question- Does this mean that with the water temp sensor disconnected the TCCS will use o2 sensor feedback?
Someone just ran into this issue recently, he was able to unbolt the rack mounting brackets and move the rack enough to be able to turn the whole tie rod with the little bracket on it.
Steel plugs do not need to be replaced when tanked, but brass ones definately do (they will be steel if they are original). My block was tanked and I didn't touch the core plugs. If they are not rusted, leave them alone.
Theres a good chance that your pan already has a drain bung plugged off, but yes you are pressurizing both the feed and drain ports of your turbo right now.
That port under the oil filter is a pressure port because some NA Supras had a pressure based oil cooler (depending on location, I don't...
I believe that "drain" under the oil filter is actually a pressure port (only drain port in the picture is circled in blue, and not present on the NA block) :yikes:
I figured as much, was just wondering if there was any actual proof that a 2.5" was restrictive at this point. Not too worried about emissions, as I have all the emissions devices on hand. I have thought about having an exhaust shop make a 3 inch exhaust, but considering that they don't do...
Well currently my car has the following mods...
7MGTE
2.5" intercooler piping/larger intercooler
57 trim CT26
3" downpipe
Gutted cat
2.5" cat back
MaftPro tuning - 15PSI boost
Fuel upgrades
My question is concerning the exhaust... I am wondering if the 2.5" catback is really costing...
Not sure how much your computer would appreciate 24v :p. It has been around 25 in the nights in AZ and 40's-50's in the day, and people are freaking out...including myself. Can't wear t shirt and shorts, doesnt make sense!
And global warming is more than just an increase in temps in the...
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