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How much freeplay at the pedal did you have?

Wow nice job! Didn't think this one was coming out...

When you hear a waterfall in the morning and know you will be pulling the head soon after

Only advice i can give you is to leave it alone lol. Best bet is a 14mm open end wrench but its a major pita. Just leave it in there and tap off a different oil pressure port. And make sure you have either that oil line i showed you from driftmotion or a 1/8NPT female to 1/8 BSPT male adapter...

Ya I am running a mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted in the engine bay. Heres a pic (credit to IJ) Red is pressure blue is drain. And no you cant just use the stock sending unit for the aftermarket gauge unfortunately :( gotta use the one that came with the gauge. Also this makes it super...

There are some other ports on the block you can tap into. The one i used is to the right of the stock pressure sending unit. look where the stock one is and more towards the front of the engine there is another port that should be blocked off with a 10 mm plug iirc

LIke poodles said theres nothing wrong if the wheels are spinning in nuetral. The fluid is thick enough that its going to rotate the wheels without any load on them. Try to post up a clip of the noise its making it could be something more simple than it seems.

If it is hardly removing any material though wouldn't it just show any high/low spots if there were any by where it polished and where it didn't? Is a lapping plate with compound enough to take a flat block out of true? I guess my question is, cant he just begin lapping and if there are any...

You used ARP hardware regardless. Its not like you used stock bolts or something. People are making it seem like its a matter of time before it fails or something, theres nothing wrong with ARP bolts, I have yet to see anyone provide any proof that they are prone to any kind of failure...

With 7m's being so rare, that is very difficult. I live in Phoenix which is a damn big city, and did a hefty amount of research trying to find a good machine shop. Turns out the shop everyone locally takes their motors to cant even get a smooth finish on the deck. Its understandable it goes both...

Its probably because of that ground strap:( Without a solid engine ground, the engine tried to ground through the clutch line, got hot, and caught fire. Get a good ground or two on that engine.

Napa carries a Taiho set for much cheaper than the dealer. (TaiHo is the same brand that OEM uses)

It's ridiculously difficult to come by a very honest and knowledgeable machine shop... I thought I had found one, and drove 6+ hours each way to drop off my engine and still ended up getting screwed over by their shitty work and lack of attention to detail. I found that the main problem is...

You shouldnt be turning anything backwards. With the crank pulley line up with the 0 mart on the timing cover, point the cams strait up and install belt, now rotate the crank clockwise a little bit and apply tension and tighten the tensioner down. Now when you turn the crank 2 times and line it...

You need to weld in a bung, you can't just tap the pipe because it has such a thin wall it would never stay in properly. You can buy those bungs for pretty cheap, they come already threaded, all you have to do is have the pipe drilled and have the bung welded in. Im surprised your downpipe...

I have a W58 with a 4.3 and its not a highway cruiser... Made a 2 hour trip last weekend and the speed limit was 75-80 and i was sitting at around 3600-3700 RPM for about an hour and a half strait :p

if you have a gray plug ECU it will have the later style connectors. The one in the pic above is an 89+, the pre 89 connectors are rectangular and use a metal wire clip to hold it on.

T bolt clamps seem like way overkill for a hose that holds absolutely no pressure. I wouldn't have an issue using a worm clamp on the accordion personally.

Yeah its the same from NA to turbo, but pre 89 and post 89 have different connectors.