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Wow, that's pretty crazy. I hadn't ran across that before. The calibration was what I was really wondering about, since it's a potentiometer. That's a pretty neat idea.

We originally ran a civic intake that had ports for vacuum and such with a cone filter on the end of it.

It truly amazes me how many times you and I can have the same discussion on here, and as I mentioned in the post right before yours, and you didn't take the time to read, is that it's a temporary solution. I was merely demonstrating that you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want as far...

It may be accurate, but even dampened I find it annoying that it doesn't show much vacuum, and if it's modified you're guessing what it's reading.

Well, I don't have an isc/afm, and my tps is from a q45, so..... That's a strange occurrence. I would have expected that unplugging the both of them would have presented new issues (indicating that they're working properly when plugged in).

There's ducting built into the hood to bring cool air down, and the filter is a temporary solution anyway. I'm in the process of installing a FFIM and a bunch of other stuff, so I'm not sure what kind of room I'm going to have until later.

I've installed them on at least four different cars, all with the same result, BUT every car/motor is different, so you never know. Michael, If you're worried about stalling, buy this: Here install it into the front of your ssqv, and run a hose from the fitting into the accordion hose...

Sounds like it's a tooth out to me as well. I usually take the cover off and see where the rotor is in relation to the magnets. Properly installed it should be slightly clockwise of the right magnet (maybe 3-4mm's). The skipping at random issue is a new one. The car will start pulling timing if...

I replaced mine with, well, nothing. And I DO realize the whole "OH MY GOD, YOU HAVE NO PCV VACUUM!!!!" situation, but, in my opinion, the vacuum isn't necessary, since we don't really have a pcv valve anyway. It's just a hole in the valve covers/cam covers/whatever you want to call them.

The wideband shouldn't be mounted on the bottom of a bend where it could collect moisture, and shouldn't be less than 2.5" from the compressor wheel (I believe. May want to check me on that). Mine personally is mounted under the passenger floor with the wiring run through the floor and into the...

I think supracentral summed it up pretty well. Compressor surge will snap the shaft in half like a twig.

Okay, here's the thing: The only way you're going to be able to keep a/c is to have a long-runner FFIM, which most on the market aren't. A short runner with a/c is theoretically possible I suppose, but it would be pretty tight on space under there, unless you ditched power steering and moved the...

I wouldn't be convinced that the idle not rising is indicative of a screwed ISC. I took mine off and blocked off the holes without any rise in idle. Have you tried unplugging the tps and starting it? Or unplugging it while the car's running? I had a similar issue, but since my car's pretty far...

...at least you asked first, right?

I'd be wary of using an alternative vacuum location. We had an issue on a pt67 powered supra in that the wastegate would open and close randomly after 13lbs (with an 18lb spring). We moved location about two inches where it was tapped on the turbo and retapped, which fixed the problem. Just my...

That has to be what he's talking about. One end goes to the supply on the lower end of the block, and the other end goes to the top of the very back of the fuel rail (the last hole on the top), with the fuel pulsation dampener (which looks like a fuel pressure regulator) on the top of it.

I second a compression test. I've never seen it happen in my experience, although I'm sure it's theoretically possible.

How did it "blow an oil line," exactly? ...the only lines I know of would be the ones going to the oil cooler, which wouldn't be a huge deal at all to fix. And, as previously mentioned, the wastegate line simply goes from the turbo to the wastegate nipple and is about 3 inches long. It doesn't...

I, personally, also replaced my boost gauge with the n/a voltmeter and moved my boost gauge to a pillar pod. That way you keep a stock look if you want to convert back (for whatever reason) and you can take advantage of a much more accurate measurement.

P.S. I just saw your photo on there. You should plug the stock BOV port on the 3000 pipe (i.e. the one that says "3000" on it) and on the accordion hose (or, the intake on the turbo) That way you don't have hoses going to nothing. And you can mount that piece in the location that you chose...