Completely stock motor here putting down 300 whp 310 tq. On 17lbs emanage blue and it ran fat rich 10.0 thru redline
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Will 1jz stock valvetrain suit BC 264's?
- Thread starter kamikazemkiii
- Start date
yes they will... if you go 272 then for sure you need to upgrade the valve train. people have done it with no issues but i also hear it can have a slight lope at idle
I dunno, after talking with some high HP Supra owners and tuners alike, I've come to the consensus that 264s are a waste of time. These tuners, some of the best on the East Coast, told me with the utmost confidence that they can make useable power nearly the same as the 264 (if not the same), and the power will hold or continue to rise for much longer. Jose from Kaizen has always told me this, and I guess I had my doubts.
All of that was in response to an honest opinion on 264s. All of them unanimously agreed it's all in the tune..
The caveat is this: all of that was based on the 2J.
All of that was in response to an honest opinion on 264s. All of them unanimously agreed it's all in the tune..
The caveat is this: all of that was based on the 2J.
te72;1813924 said:
264 vs smallcore 272 debate.. IMO, it's not an argument at all, 272 or stay stock. After seeing some real world results and some dyno sheets, I'm convinced the 272s don't kill the low end as much as folks think. Again though, this was on a few various 2Js, so there is an obvious difference in low end from 2.5-3L
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Interesting... well, I have no experience with 272's myself, nor personal 2j experience. This being on a 1j might affect things somewhat, I mean their valves are even different sized... I'd love to see my car dyno with stock cams (still have them somewhere), but is it really worth the effort to me? Not really. Would be nice to see someone dyno the 3 different cams back to back on the same car/engine.
IMO, a lot of people with 2J wanted to replicate Ryan Woon. He made great power on 264's.
I would go with 272's if I was going to mess with the larger turbo's, though
I would go with 272's if I was going to mess with the larger turbo's, though
No, you can either use the rope trick or compressed air to keep the valves up with the head still attached. I used the rope trick when I replaced my VSS last summer.MK3Hitman21;1813934 said:
Rope trick: Feed some rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole when its at top dead center. Go until its full of rope, change springs- the rope keep the valve from falling in vis mechanical interference. Just be sure to blow the cylinder out afterwards to make sure bits of rope don't hang around inside.
Air pressure: Use a compression test adapter that has an air hose quick-disconnect on its end. Roll the cylinder to top dead center and fix the crank so it doesn't turn. Connect an air compressor (with a min 5 gallon tank) to the adapter and change the springs/seals. The air pressure keeps the valve seated as long as the pressure is maintained, when replacing valve seals this can be tricky but still do-able. The valve stem seal actually holds/slows movement of the valve is the pressure seal is lost, but its not there during replacement!
Be sure the cylinder you're working on is at TDC otherwise you may have to pull the head if something goes awry. A magnet smaller than the valve stem diameter is a lifesaver if the valve somehow drops during service, if the cyl is still at TDC!
Air pressure: Use a compression test adapter that has an air hose quick-disconnect on its end. Roll the cylinder to top dead center and fix the crank so it doesn't turn. Connect an air compressor (with a min 5 gallon tank) to the adapter and change the springs/seals. The air pressure keeps the valve seated as long as the pressure is maintained, when replacing valve seals this can be tricky but still do-able. The valve stem seal actually holds/slows movement of the valve is the pressure seal is lost, but its not there during replacement!
Be sure the cylinder you're working on is at TDC otherwise you may have to pull the head if something goes awry. A magnet smaller than the valve stem diameter is a lifesaver if the valve somehow drops during service, if the cyl is still at TDC!
Moves the band forward more.
Boost comes on more gradually and doesn't "hit" like a freight train like the stock cams. Full boost comes on later.
Pulls harder and harder until 7600 which is my limiter, Im sure it would go just as hard to 8k.
Boost comes on more gradually and doesn't "hit" like a freight train like the stock cams. Full boost comes on later.
Pulls harder and harder until 7600 which is my limiter, Im sure it would go just as hard to 8k.