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1Relentless87
Guest
Someone had pm'ed me before on how to run the lines but because of the hack I didn't get to print info. So If anybody could tell me once more on how to run the oil feed and return line to/from the turbo I would really appriciate it. 
Please dont post more then one thread pertaining to basically the same thing...rather post multiple questions in one. thanks...
PM SQUID699 as he has a NA-T conversion he would be able to help....
and if you are talking about coolant lines to the turbo you dont really need them as long as you have a turbo timer....
PM SQUID699 as he has a NA-T conversion he would be able to help....
and if you are talking about coolant lines to the turbo you dont really need them as long as you have a turbo timer....
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1Relentless87
Guest
Sorry about the post mang. and thanx for the info? but I wouldn't it help even more with the coolant lines?
the coolant lines are basically toyotas backup for idiots not allowing the turbo cool down time.... basically if you have a turbo timer that will idle down the turbo and cool it down like that...coolant lines are NOT needed... they are more of a failsafe.
look at the big aftermarket turbos...MOST of them dont have coolant lines..
look at the big aftermarket turbos...MOST of them dont have coolant lines..
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I run coolant on my GT30R I T'd into the heater lines with my own adaptors and ran 3/8 silicone to the turbo (rubber won't last long near the turbine housing)
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1Relentless87
Guest
One thing to note is that on the dry housing turbos, they have a larger oil capacity as they are designed to use oil to cool the turbo as well as lubricate. wet housings have a more compact oil gallery as there is a coolant cavity for water cooling in a housing that is roughly the same size.
One example was my friends Turboed CRX, he ran a -6 feed line to his dry housing 16G and all was well. He then switched to a wet housing big 16G off of an evo and that same -6 line popped the piston ring on the turbine shaft and the car smoked constantly.
With the dry housing, it was fine, then he switched to a -4 line and it was fine with the wet housing.
IMHO, if the turbo was designed to be ran wet, run it wet for BEST results, however Ideal is more than likely right the there won't be any problem as long as you aren't a moron.
-Jake
One example was my friends Turboed CRX, he ran a -6 feed line to his dry housing 16G and all was well. He then switched to a wet housing big 16G off of an evo and that same -6 line popped the piston ring on the turbine shaft and the car smoked constantly.
With the dry housing, it was fine, then he switched to a -4 line and it was fine with the wet housing.
IMHO, if the turbo was designed to be ran wet, run it wet for BEST results, however Ideal is more than likely right the there won't be any problem as long as you aren't a moron.
-Jake
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1Relentless87
Guest
I used a 5/8 brass male/male/male T piece and drilled and tapped the top of the T for a 3/8 brass barb, once that was done I silver brazed the barb in so it would never leak!1Relentless87 said:
I put one in the hose that comes out of the firewall to the block hardline and the other in the hose on top of the head that goes to the heater valve.
(These double as the pickups for the LPG convertor hence them being X's)
To do it as a T I'd buy 2 5/8 male/female/male T's then screw a 3/8 barb into the female!
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1Relentless87
Guest