I'm needing to know the advantages/disadvantages in using aluminum connecting rods for a road race engine that will be rev limited to 7500 RPM, and will see an enduro a year. Van
Pros & Cons of Aluminum Con Rods
- Thread starter Van
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If you can afford regular inspection/replacement sure but personally I wouldn't use them for an endurance style engine Van.
Dedicated drag car only that will be torn down and rebuilt all the time (and replacing the rods every so often).
Aluminum work hardens, so it's a failure waiting to happen.
Now titanium rods are another story...
Aluminum work hardens, so it's a failure waiting to happen.
Now titanium rods are another story...
Are there light weight con rods that are in the same price range which are rated for 400RWHP, on an enduro engine, rev limited to 7500RPM? I'm planning to reduce the reciprocating weight, and retain Toyota reliability.
Thanks, Van
Thanks, Van
van either get custom titanium rods or use the stock rods shot peened. if you want forged steel rods your options are eagles or the more expensive pauter. you can save significant weight by switching to a 7.5 clutch, and lightening the crank
I'm gonna go with the rest of the clan on this one. I'd personally opt for the Ti rods vice the AL ones. Here's a good little article to read, as I'm sure that you've already done your homework looking into this.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/16280/connecting_rods_so_many_choices.aspx
p.s. if you're only limiting your rpm to 7.5K, I'd go Ti. Alu would allow you to have a higher rpm limit.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/16280/connecting_rods_so_many_choices.aspx
p.s. if you're only limiting your rpm to 7.5K, I'd go Ti. Alu would allow you to have a higher rpm limit.
My Thank You to all!
The engine builder suggested I stay with the stock rods for my power goals. He is going to have them stress relieved, I said: "What, you're giving them a massage?" No, heat treated and coated with oil shedding ceramic coating, to reduce windage... Oh! I asked about having them shot peened, but he and another engine builder I'm consulting with, neither know of anyone who does this in the greater Northwest. Any leads in that regard? Van
The engine builder suggested I stay with the stock rods for my power goals. He is going to have them stress relieved, I said: "What, you're giving them a massage?" No, heat treated and coated with oil shedding ceramic coating, to reduce windage... Oh! I asked about having them shot peened, but he and another engine builder I'm consulting with, neither know of anyone who does this in the greater Northwest. Any leads in that regard? Van
Is this an example of what you referenced, http://www.10000rpm.com/images/stories/2009pricesheetsm.pdf.
Any personal experience; If so, how well do they perform? Van
Any personal experience; If so, how well do they perform? Van
supraguru05;1378676 said:
Eagle rods, although not the best choice for an all out turbo 7M, are great for a NA.
They weigh less, they are stronger, come in +/- 1 gram ballanced sets,
and they are dirt cheap.
And if you ever spin a bearing in one, you can call up eagle,
and order a replacement, in a weight that will match your set.
Why bother with the expense of a fully prepped stock rod,
(if you can track down someone th shot pein them)
when for a few dollars more, you can have an H-beam?
By the way, why limit it to 7500?
I turn my NA to 8500 on a daily basis (Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons).
They weigh less, they are stronger, come in +/- 1 gram ballanced sets,
and they are dirt cheap.
And if you ever spin a bearing in one, you can call up eagle,
and order a replacement, in a weight that will match your set.
Why bother with the expense of a fully prepped stock rod,
(if you can track down someone th shot pein them)
when for a few dollars more, you can have an H-beam?
By the way, why limit it to 7500?
I turn my NA to 8500 on a daily basis (Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons).
How much lighter are the Eagle rods? Enough to make a noticable difference in how fast the revs come up?
Van
Van
I'm revlimited by virtue of the conservative build I'm having put together. I'm still on a CT26 turbo w/a 50 "trim" compressor wheel. The cams I'm using have had both sets of durations increased by 10 degrees, so I can take advantage of the power up to 6500 RPM and widen the torque curve w/max torque at 4400 RPM.
I'm taking this car through development one stage at a time. Plan is to test the limits on the dyno and get the data and then take it out on the track and test it there, again look at the data, and make my decision to stay or go for more power. The motor as planned may make up to 325WHP @ 6500. Van
I'm taking this car through development one stage at a time. Plan is to test the limits on the dyno and get the data and then take it out on the track and test it there, again look at the data, and make my decision to stay or go for more power. The motor as planned may make up to 325WHP @ 6500. Van
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Van;1380209 said:
It's not so much that they're "lighter" it's the fact they're brand new and "should" be perfect out of the box, the $ you spend prepping a set of stock rods would be damn close and this is before you have the wrist pin bores rebushed and honed to size.
You make a good point. All the other internals are new, and so shall the Rods. I've decided to go with the Eagle Rods. Van
Thanks. In a small way, I'm meeting a goal to reduce the reciprocating weight and that is one of the goals of this build (that and reliability).
You wouldn't happen to have a 7M Torque Plate, to rent to me? Van
You wouldn't happen to have a 7M Torque Plate, to rent to me? Van
gofastgeorge;1381358 said: