piston slap

lppro

LP Performance & off road
Apr 21, 2007
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Sugar Hill, Georgia, United States
ok so i just read the thread by supracentrel about piston slap.. so how do i know if i have it? im running forged je pistons .40 over and i thought i had a very small rod knock.. then i read that thread and now i think its piston slap... the motor only had 270 miles on it... so its not fully broken in yet... is this a bad thing if i do have it? what dose it sound like?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
If you indeed have slap it will do it on a cold start (it will rattle) then go away as the motor warms up.

In extreme cases it's a bad thing and will break the skirt off the piston..... (don't ask how I know this)
 

Murder

I gots teh CARFAX y0!
Jan 26, 2007
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Clifton, NJ
Hmmm, this is a normal thing on Subies. I bought mine with it, drove for 45,000 miles, and sold it with it. Might not be all that good on an inline motor though.

IJ is right about the cold start issue. It gets really loud and really bad in the winter. Did you do it yourself or had a shop take care of it? I'm really unfamiliar with the causes of an inline piston slap (unless your skirtless) but with all other engines it's usually because of uneven wear due to pistons leaning on one side of the cylinder wall all the time.
 

arz

Arizona Performance
Nov 14, 2005
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Mesa, AZ
www.ArizonaPerformance.com
My Je Pistons do this too. It really doesn't seem to completely go away when it warms up.

Clifton's slaps when its cold too. I just called him and he said his seems to go away when it warms up.
 

chris1039

New Member
Jun 24, 2007
80
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tucson, arizona
does this only occure if you put different pistons and rods in or does this happen on engines that are stock also. i was wondering because i have a knock that is loud when i first start the car but it only happens around 900 rpm and it gets much less pronounced once the engine is at normal operating temperature.
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
I've delt with this on three sets of ROSS pistons.

They reccomend a 6k clearance to the bore so the piston will never expand and stick in the bore. (So your bore is 6k larger than the maximum diameter of the piston.)

I've found on my coated pistons, that 4k reduces the slap, and I do not think the pistons will expand as much due to the combination of coatings, and our oil squirters cooling the undersides of the pistons. Keep in mind, I've never run "bare" pistons, but only ones with thermal barrier on the crown, molydisulfied on the skirts and thermal dispersant on the undersides. The coatings in theory, and reality, limit the amount of heat the piston can absorb, and improve the amount of heat they can pass onto the oil sprayed onto the underside of them. This keeps them cooler and they do not expand as much, so they slap like a MoFo' when you put them in at 6k clearance like ROSS reccomends.

At 4k, they slap some on start up when cold, minimally on start up when hot, and it goes away as the engine warms up completely. Extreme cold weather start up's are loud. It sounds like the engine is broken... But improves when warmed up...(I'm talking starting the car after it's been sitting in a parking garage in 10f weather for a few days. Or even in sub zero weather.)

Do not rev your motor to heat it up. Just start the engine, and let it idle untill the slap decreases, or run at low engine speeds untill it warms up. (Like 3k or less IMHO.) This should help to limit any skirt wear, and keep them from cracking like IJ talked about.

The slap sound is from the pistons rocking in the bores, and rattling around in the bore when they are cold. The flip side is when the forged material heats up, it fits perfectly in the bore, not to loose, not to tight, and they are much stronger than stock pistons.

If you are going to run high boost, and go for max power, you need forged pistons. Cast ones, even coated, will not hold up to serious abuse/use, and a piston failure is death for your engine. Especially if a rod becomes loose.. it will poke holes in your block, and break stuff you did not think was possible.

I've been looking at various pistons, and ROSS is about as strong as they get. Super thick skirt walls, and crown. Plus the material around the pin is beefy.

JE's are just about as beefy.

Wiesco has longer skirts, and thinner areas, but they have been used in some very high power engines.

The Probe pistons look interesting. Look lighter than ROSS< and have longer skirts in the photos I've seen. This might help to limit slap. (The longer skirt) They are also lighter weight, and that would help to spin up the motor faster, but might limit ultimate power the piston can handle.

The perfect piston for our aplication would be beefy around the pin, short skirts on the pin sides, and longer than ROSS, but beefy skirts opposite the pins to limit piston rocking when cold. I'd gladly give up a few mm of skirt material around the sides of the pin bores to add mm's to the skirts where the pistons rock/slap when cold. :)

Hope this helps.
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
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r.i.
with wiesco i have no slap and the motor was broken in in the winter. I have them at .004 and they have a coating on them that wears away so they end up at.045. No slap at all cold or hot. The thing to remember is our pistons have offset pins because of the rotation of the motor. Wiesco is the only 2618 forged piston i know of with off set pins. Also never beat on the car untill it is warmed up as adjuster said, this should help you not break skirts.