oil leaking out of head

525gte

New Member
Sep 19, 2011
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hoquiam
so i am not 100 % on this but i belive my head is leaking oil, in the fron on the intake side. at number 1, car has arp studs and metal gasket..

i have never heard of having to retorq arps before, but has this ever happend to any on on here?
this is the best pic i could get
p1794265_1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Radial

New Member
Aug 20, 2011
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Norway
I would doubt the head is cracked/leaking..its probably your copper-headgasket that fails to seal one of the oil-lines innside the head.
Go with the stock TT Headgasket...suitable for over 1000bhp :) OEM metall reinforced.

And your head might need a resurfacing..but the OEM gasket is mutch more flexible than copper ones.
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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Tampa
EDIT: NEVERMIND, posted the info below, with a 7M on my mind. Sorry.

Who installed the headgasket? There shoulda been some RTV/sealant applied at the gap between the front timing case & block... happened to me once. Became big-@$$ leak in no time... 1st picture/diagram of page EM55 in the TRSM... I forgot on my 87T and dealt with big oil puddles for awhile... Sprayed out oil, under WOT conditions too. Good luck.

Have to remove head, maybe replace gasket, to properly fix. Good luck!!

AND... Yes, U should at least recheck the torque after alot of heating/cooling cycles..... even with ARPs.
 

xzeror

Active Member
Oct 18, 2009
1,356
1
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Miramar, FL
Radial;1794613 said:
I would doubt the head is cracked/leaking..its probably your copper-headgasket that fails to seal one of the oil-lines innside the head.
Go with the stock TT Headgasket...suitable for over 1000bhp :) OEM metall reinforced.

And your head might need a resurfacing..but the OEM gasket is mutch more flexible than copper ones.

WTF are u talking about...?

To OP, did you read the instructions by arp and use their specified lube? and many people do retorques with the arps too ...
 

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
ARP need a retorque. Everything needs a retorque.

After everything is heat cycled, expands and cools, you need to do a retorque. Crack a 1/4 turn and tighten back to spec. You do one bolt/but at a time meaning, you crank one nut loose and then pull it back to spec BEFORE loosening the next one.

I am super OCD about this. I must have PM'ed Ian about this process over 10 times.
 

525gte

New Member
Sep 19, 2011
450
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hoquiam
IBoughtASupra;1794625 said:
ARP need a retorque. Everything needs a retorque.

After everything is heat cycled, expands and cools, you need to do a retorque. Crack a 1/4 turn and tighten back to spec. You do one bolt/but at a time meaning, you crank one nut loose and then pull it back to spec BEFORE loosening the next one.

I am super OCD about this. I must have PM'ed Ian about this process over 10 times.
and i am thinking this is my problem. car is in the gargaenow, going to do a front main and swap back to stock cams. (to see if it fixs my idle problems) also going to do a retorq
 

525gte

New Member
Sep 19, 2011
450
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hoquiam
xzeror;1794620 said:
WTF are u talking about...?

To OP, did you read the instructions by arp and use their specified lube? and many people do retorques with the arps too ...
yeah i did they also have a revision to their generic instrucyion on their site. and used their lube.. never thouht i would ever say i used someone elses lube..lol