Need just a little help on a fresh rebuild

kueves87

New Member
Oct 18, 2009
26
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0
tucson
So first of all a brief history. My dads 89 t has been running great on a jdm motor since 2001. Blew the hg in 08, put a fresh hks 3mm mhg on it plus a freshly rebuilt ct26, and had the head resurfaced, and its been running GREAT since then. Fast forward to april of this year and a slight knock turned into a spun bearing and a seized motor. Considering how long its been running, i figured it was gonna happen eventually so it wasn't a huge deal.. Pulled the motor, brought the block to a very reputable shop and had them give me a freshly rebuilt bottom end, with upgraded rods from drift motion and stock pistons, and had the crank redone and balanced. This is a weekend driver for my dad so we're not looking for high hp, just dependability.
had them check the head and its still in spec so i put everything back together and dropped it in last month, fired it up sunday night AND THE BITCH FIRED FIRST TRY!!!!. suffice to say i was stoked as hell. Its purring like a kitten, so I've been driving it to and from work every day this week to find leaks and break it in and haven't had ANY major issues, which is a huge relief!!! I did do a bunch of research on break ins and spoke with my uncle who is a highly respected master technician in tucson, and I'm doing a soft 500 mile break in using varied speeds, again looking for dependability, not building a race car.

Now to my problem. i noticed that it seems to have a very slight hesitation at around 2000 rpms while on the road, almost like a mini misfire. i cant detect it when its in park and I'm workin the throttle, so i hooked up a timing light to it. heres where it gets weird. The number one plug seems to have a slight stutter about every tenth pulse or so, so i put the light on number 6 and its got the same stutter. went down each wire and they all kinda seem to do the same thing.. (side note, does each ignition module pulse its plugs at two different speeds? Cuz number 1 pulses half as many times as 6, as do 2/5 and 3/4, so I'm guessing that a normal thing i just haven't done research on it yet...)

Just to reassure myself i went in a double checked my timing belt, and when the crank is at 0, the cams are a half a tooth advanced, aka when i set the cam marks to line up with backing plate marks, the crank is about 5 degrees negative. when the engine is running the crank is at 0. Will that slight difference between the cams and crank cause a huge issue with how it runs? keep in mind this thing idles smooth as silk at about 6-700rpms and runs very well from 1000-1800, and 2500-3000. i can only feel the hesitation at around 2000 rpms…though in park when i hit the throttle and let it off real quick, up to around 3500-4k, it does have a small backfire, but only like one or two pops on the way back down.

So in summary, will the crank and cams being off half a tooth be detrimental to the motor or cause and issues once i get it broken and and turn the boost back up? (manual boost controller, Ive got it turned down for the break in for safety :)

And what would cause the plugs to intermittently miss? Ive already tried a new set of coils, and I'm gonna try a new cps tomorrow, but i wanted to see if you guys think it could be anything else… thanks in advance, this forum has always been very helpful and i appreciate everyone for keeping these killer cars alive and kickin. My 87t full resto should be on the road in the next couple years and ill keep everyone updated on progress. thanks again guys, sorry for the novel :)
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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kueves87;2064727 said:
Just to reassure myself i went in a double checked my timing belt, and when the crank is at 0, the cams are a half a tooth advanced, aka when i set the cam marks to line up with backing plate marks, the crank is about 5 degrees negative. when the engine is running the crank is at 0. Will that slight difference between the cams and crank cause a huge issue with how it runs? keep in mind this thing idles smooth as silk at about 6-700rpms and runs very well from 1000-1800, and 2500-3000. i can only feel the hesitation at around 2000 rpms…though in park when i hit the throttle and let it off real quick, up to around 3500-4k, it does have a small backfire, but only like one or two pops on the way back down.

Unless the belt is stretched, it can't really do that. The bottom cogged pulley needs to be aligned with the cams lined up. Unfortunately, Toyota thought the cogged pulley on the crank needed no timing mark. Did you have diagnostic pins jumped before putting a timing light on it? Also, look up JJs article about a very slight miss and grounding the ignitor box. These cars are quite old and a lot of wiring has been heated and abused with corrosion over the years.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,231
36
48
Atlanta
Was the 3mm head gasket necessary for material removed from the deck surface? I would think if you were to use too thick of a head gasket, it will pull cam timing off slightly, due to the taller height between crank and cams.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,871
37
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
supraguy@aol;2065204 said:
Was the 3mm head gasket necessary for material removed from the deck surface? I would think if you were to use too thick of a head gasket, it will pull cam timing off slightly, due to the taller height between crank and cams.

Good point, it will.
 

kueves87

New Member
Oct 18, 2009
26
0
0
tucson
Hey guys thanks for the replies. I actually figured out and solved all my issues lol. I believe you're right about the head gasket thickness making the teeth just a tad off but my real issue was the cps. It had a bad miss so I swapped it out and retimed it with using the jumper wire and now it's running better than it ever had in its entire life lol. Thanks again!