idle air control replacment

[525gte]

so i want to 1st thankthe guys thast helped me on my running like crap thread. THANK YOU!!!

so i need a new idle air (speed )control valve. i can not find one. i have the part number nut that not helping me much.

is their a replacement state side that u can buy , maybe off of a 2j??

or will a 7m iac work, i have one at my disposal if it does? or at least a site that i can buy one from.

i thought anout blocking it off but i dont like that it does not idle up cold and kick down as it sholud. any help is good help . thanks

 

[te72]

Many of the 1j IACV's go bad on us for whatever reason. There are proper fixes to this problem, which are fairly pricey, and then there are workarounds, which, while not a "proper" fix, will hold you over long enough to save up the cash and still be able to drive the car in the meantime.

 

[525gte]

Many of the 1j IACV's go bad on us for whatever reason. There are proper fixes to this problem, which are fairly pricey, and then there are workarounds, which, while not a "proper" fix, will hold you over long enough to save up the cash and still be able to drive the car in the meantime.

so what are the proper fixs? i have not been able to find anyone online selling them?

and other than living with it or blocking it off for a walkaround , what other fixs are their. i am going to go soak the inside of it with atf see if it will start working again, but i ohmd it out and its no good, and its also a sealed unit

 

[te72]

The proper fix is replacing the ISCV with a new one. When I was pricing this out, the cheapest I found (a 2j variant, not even positive it would have worked) was over $300. The OEM Toyota part was over $700.

Unfortunately, like you mention, they are a sealed unit, unlike the 7m. Kinda one of the few steps back that Toyota designed into the 1j if you ask me... Now, when you start the car, can you keep it alive by holding in the throttle just a bit?

 

[525gte]

The proper fix is replacing the ISCV with a new one. When I was pricing this out, the cheapest I found (a 2j variant, not even positive it would have worked) was over $300. The OEM Toyota part was over $700.

Unfortunately, like you mention, they are a sealed unit, unlike the 7m. Kinda one of the few steps back that Toyota designed into the 1j if you ask me... Now, when you start the car, can you keep it alive by holding in the throttle just a bit?

yeah i can hold the gas and keep it going after its stars to warm up its good.. i have a 7 m that i am hacking into to see if it will work. i got it to fit the location, , the problem is that the plunger on a 7m goes out to open up and the 1 j goes in.. not that appling to the eye. but i think i may be able to work something out. i was going to build a spacer to give the plunger enough room to open. but than it will not fit, the 7m unit is bigger
.
maaybe i can find a 2j na car in the yard and try to adapt that. i am also looking for a gm or ford unit that maybe i can remote mount and build a adapter.. its alot of tinkering. but i want to turn the key and walk away

 

[te72]

Well, in the time being, if you need to drive the car, there are some set screws on the throttle body's brackets that can be adjusted to hold the throttle in just slightly enough to keep the car running. If your ISCV is like mine, it may work on occasion, and this "workaround" method will cause your car to idle a bit high (mine occasionally sits at around 1100 when the ISCV does it's job).

Like I said, not a permanent fix, but it should get you by for now. I'm going with a standalone before long, so not terribly concerned about fixing it properly on mine, as it will likely be blocked off anyway.

 

[525gte]

Well, in the time being, if you need to drive the car, there are some set screws on the throttle body's brackets that can be adjusted to hold the throttle in just slightly enough to keep the car running. If your ISCV is like mine, it may work on occasion, and this "workaround" method will cause your car to idle a bit high (mine occasionally sits at around 1100 when the ISCV does it's job).

Like I said, not a permanent fix, but it should get you by for now. I'm going with a standalone before long, so not terribly concerned about fixing it properly on mine, as it will likely be blocked off anyway.

yeah i have them adjusted , the problem with messing with the idle screw is every time u do u have to re calibrate tps.. im working on a few crazy ideas. if i get one that looks good and works good ill post it up as a fix

 

[T701jz]

yeah i have them adjusted , the problem with messing with the idle screw is every time u do u have to re calibrate tps.. im working on a few crazy ideas. if i get one that looks good and works good ill post it up as a fix

At your last thread I mentioned removing the 264's out of the equations (due to these problems). Remind you that I have an HKS264's also and I went through all these problems. There is nothing wrong with the ISCV. I had the idle to stay at 8K by adjusting the cam gears (advance) but still running rich at cold start. I didn't want to play with the adjustment screws due to TPS responded. Everyone I know that have HKS264 had gone with this problem and even went to an idea of drilling a hole on butterfly valve for idle control and others just went to stand alone that can control the idle....I hope this make sense now.

*Also make sure the TB valve is not sticking or else you'll be adjusting that screw back and fort.

 

[hvyman]

Could block off the isc and just open the throttle some.

 

[525gte]

At your last thread I mentioned removing the 264's out of the equations (due to these problems). Remind you that I have an HKS264's also and I went through all these problems. There is nothing wrong with the ISCV. I had the idle to stay at 8K by adjusting the cam gears (advance) but still running rich at cold start. I didn't want to play with the adjustment screws due to TPS responded. Everyone I know that have HKS264 had gone with this problem and even went to an idea of drilling a hole on butterfly valve for idle control and others just went to stand alone that can control the idle....I hope this make sense now.

*Also make sure the TB valve is not sticking or else you'll be adjusting that screw back and fort.

no i understand the rich run at idle is from the cams.. but my idle air is working only when it wants to.. and when it does work it it only opening a very little bit not all the way. i used a ohm meter on a bench and itohmed out very high.. as far as i know i should not see over 30 ohms on the coils. i am getting no lower than 45 , ( i am not 100 percent positive on the 30 ohms, due that i do not have another iac for a control)

and i have it idle at 800 after its warmed up. adjusting the tps only takes like 2 min with a volt meter so i dont mind messing with it and throwing around some ideas. all that i really need to know is a location to buy a new iac, i can not find them anywhere.. oh the problem i had with the car running like crap was my adjustable cam gears slipped.. retatrded the ex like 14 degreess.. thanks for the feed back
.

 

[T701jz]

The 45 ohms doesn't mean/accurate that the solenoid is bad. It came to a point I got fed up with running rich and I removed the cams. Then I set every thing back to normal and the ISCV worked just fine. It would have been easy and beneficial if I have the understanding (Print) to the ECU's ladder logic control (Air temp sensor, Water temp sensor, Cams home position, TPS, Injectors I/O...etc) instead of going with trial and error trying to pick the mind of the engineer who program the logic. At work I would simply plug in the computer and open up the PLC (Programmable Logic Control) of the Drive (ECU) and troubleshoot the system. I can only assume the cam is program with time limit (at certain degree) in the program and the cam trigger is way off the limit. The reason why you have to adjust the cams timing and will not work at zero mark....just my .02 ;-)

Like I said by simply advancing the cams you'll be able to find the spot where you don't have to press the gas at cold start. Then do some road test to make sure you're not leaning at full boost and at top end.