help with maft start issue

[donnyavery]

ok well this is my first post but ive been lurking for a bit now (using the search function a lot) so heres my set up

1. 7mgte swap
2. w58 swap
3. fmic
4. 2.5inch ic pipes
5. safc
6. 3inch exhaust pipe turbo back
7. snow performance water/meth kit running boost juice
8. eboost 2 ebc
9. turbosmart bov
10. aem wide band
11. swapped in 3.91 with lsd
12. 2 core radiator
13. egr delete
14. evap canister deleted
15. fuel pump 12v relay mod
16. and now the maft (original)
17. did a Pulsation damper delete

so ive installed this maft and when the car is cooled i literally have to crank it warm then it will start (15 to 20 min worth of cranking) but wants it starts it runs and drives great and if you shut it off as long as its still warm it will fire right back up i just cant figure this out and its my dd, i drive it to work every day so i got to get it right and soon so if anyone has a idea i would be grateful for any input

 

[Bmettie]

Check your cold start circuit
Temp switch
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=112
Cold Start Injector
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=77

 

[donnyavery]

ive been throught the cold starting system and tested the ohm like the book said to i even went as far as to pull out the cold start injector put it into a glass jar and crank the motor to see if it was spraying fuel it definitely getting fuel as it covered my garage wall once I finally started

 

[donnyavery]

no one else have any input?

 

[donnyavery]

ok after a week of fighting with the car i finely got it working right. so i talk to the guys from fullthottle they said i had the wrong maf so i bought the one they said i needed (95 monte carlo ss with the 5.7 with vin p) and nothing changed ran the same and started the same. but with some further testing i found that the maft was dropping to 10.9 volts why the car was cranking so i ended up adding a 5 pin bosh relay triggered by the +b1 ecu wire and added a Diode across the coil and one in the trigger wire to keep from getting flyback to the ecu and that solved the hole problem. it starts every time with no more then 3 -4sec of cranking