Hatch and gas lid cable remove/install

[Grandavi]

Okay.. I am looking at replacing my hatch cable (its busted somewhere near the end piece). From what I can see, I have to remove the driver's seat, rear seats and almost the entire rear interior to access everything correctly.
Anyone done this that can verify I am not going to do a lot of work for nothing? lol.

(this is for my 90 MK3.. not the 88)

 

[iruyle]

Coincidentally, I just did this about four hours ago. You MIGHT be able to do it without taking the seat out, just slip the 10mm in through the hole in the carpet where the levers emerge. That said, you will almost certainly need to lose the rear wings that hold the speaker boxes which means rear seatbacks and rear seat elbow panels. See the pic. It is the thin cable clipped very gently into wire clips all the way from the door sill over the strut tower and around the edge of the cargo area. It is a job well worth doing if you need it done though, plus you will likely find a few bucks in change in the process.

 

[Grandavi]

ah, just what I expected.. gonna have to strip the panels off the back.. may as well do the antennae at the same time and get it all done with... and brake light seals...
These cars dont really stop costing do they.. lol.. find a couple bucks? My Supras have yet to pay me anything.. : D

 

[RazoE]

If 90's are anything like 91/92's then you should replace the hatch cable with an 86.5-89 model. 91/92 (and possibly '90) cables are 2 piece and are made of fail.

 

[iruyle]

If 90's are anything like 91/92's then you should replace the hatch cable with an 86.5-89 model. 91/92 (and possibly '90) cables are 2 piece and are made of fail.

I never knew that. Thats nuts. How do they even make one with two pieces?

 

[RazoE]

The hatch cable goes to a box, and it has a small lever and another cable coming out of it. Why they chose this I have no idea but it sucks and fails quite often.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-SUPR...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

[Grandavi]

damn.. well.. I bought the cable replacement for about 30.00 (both gas door and hatch) so I will just use it. Its a pain to do, but if I have to do it again later, so be it. Its kinda good to take the rear interior out once in a while anyway to monitor any potential rust areas...

 

[RazoE]

damn.. well.. I bought the cable replacement for about 30.00 (both gas door and hatch) so I will just use it. Its a pain to do, but if I have to do it again later, so be it. Its kinda good to take the rear interior out once in a while anyway to monitor any potential rust areas...

And to swap out the rear speakers

 

[iruyle]

damn.. well.. I bought the cable replacement for about 30.00 (both gas door and hatch) so I will just use it. Its a pain to do, but if I have to do it again later, so be it. Its kinda good to take the rear interior out once in a while anyway to monitor any potential rust areas...

If you want an 86.5 hatch cable, I have a good one you can have free. Pm me your shipping addy if you want it.

 

[hotrod11212]

This helped I have to do this. I've been delaying.

 

[Grandavi]

I will be doing sometime next month probably (as long as it doesnt get too cold). Hate the key open method.. lol.

I was just wondering.. is there any lubricant that should be used on the hatch release (the metal sprung part that holds the hatch closed in between the tails). ALways wondered if that should be lubed or just WD40'd....

 

[jetjock]

Go electric on the hatch and add a pin switch for the gas door while you're in there.

 

[Grandavi]

wow.. lol.. I never thought of it. Electric would make it easier. Is there anyone that has done this? (Im not an engineer.. more of a follower) Probably a simple little addition of wires and some used electronic kicker from the wreckers...

 

[te72]

Could probably adapt a remote trunk opener from an LS400 easily enough.