Full Rebuild Question

[rotarex]

hey there i am buying a used engine from the scrapyard and sending it to advance engine rebuilding in woodbridge, they got the most warranty per kms, just want to know if there is anything i need to add extra to the engine

the engine is for a swap going into a pickup

and goals are more power and more mpg
400hp at the crank tops


not sure if performance valves and after market pistons will help the mpg
the crank will be machined and balanced

any extra sensors needed ? ect ect?
do you think copper head gaskets is that important when the heads are machined?

any problems with the 7mgte? as of internal that needs to be dealt with while on the rebuild table, oil and water pump, squirter's ??

thanks

 

[supraslo]

Go ahead with new oil pump, which is normally a no brainer when rebuilding an engine. I would shot peen the rods, maybe knife edge the crank, and install .020 over pistons to clean up the cylinders and bring compression back. Use a MLS or copper head gasket (A MUST!!!) oversized valves are not necessary but will help air flow. Port the turbo manifold. It is awfully restrictive in stock form. Rebuild the turbo or op for a new turbo. This way when you go back together everything will be new and you will have no worries about the turbo sucking oil or anything. Keep in my mind that you are going to want to do everything internal at one time, so that if you upgrade anything else you don't have to take apart the engine to do it. (i.e. MLS head gasket NOW, fuel injectors LATER) Just refreshing the engine and getting good compression back will increase your mpg, as well as help performance, but if you ever decide to upgrade injectors, you will not enjoy very good MPG!!

 

[supraslo]

Your 400hp request can be easily achieved by boost controller, HKS FCD, 3" exhaust. Run 18psi on a stock setup and you will be impressed. No need to spend bunches of money until you are trying to achieve 500whp.

 

[jdub]

A copper HG is difficult (if not impossible) to install properly on a 7M...a HKS or Cometic MHG is what you want to use. Both the block and head will need to meet the RA (smoothness) spec for the MHG used...you want both as smooth as possible. Do not use a spray sealer on a new MHG. Use ARP head studs or bolts, torqued to ARP spec.

Knife edging the crank is not required...Straightening, indexing, and truing/micro polishing the journals are. Have the main caps line honed...replace the squirter bolts to get consistent pressure...replace the oil pump shaft bearing. If you have the block bored, make sure the main caps and the timing belt tensioning pulley are torqued to TRSM spec when the boring takes place...make sure the shop uses a torque plate secured to the block deck too. Personally, I would use forged pistons. The stock rods should be fine...have them re-sized to mate to the crank journals with an appropriate std or undersized bearing, shot preened, and balanced to equal weight. NDC bearings are good (NDC makes Clevite only cheaper).

The stock exhaust manifold is not as restrictive as some folks think...for your power goal, it's fine as is. However, a port will not hurt...just make sure you do not match to the exhaust ports on the head. You need to leave a lip on the head to act as a reversion dam. Matching the ports on the intake side is fine. A mild polish to remove the casting marks and provide a more direct path for flow inside for the exhaust/intake would not hurt either. The stock size valves should be fine for your goal...have a full valve job done (3 angle min) and replace the guides/seals. Make sure the valve clearances are set before you install the head...easier to do with it off the motor.

During assembly, make very sure the TSRM is followed to the letter (except for ARP hardware torque specs)...use plenty of motor oil for lube.

You will need a turbo upgrade to meet your goals...either after market or a CT26 mod to a 57 trim. You will also need more fuel...550 injectors, AFPR, and a Lex AFM will be the easiest. A MAFT Pro will give you all the control you need.

Supraslo - there's an edit function that's there to revise your post...start using it vs making a new post.

 

[str8_6]

yeah, i forgot who, but someone on supraforums was running a 7m pickup in the 9's with i believe stock manifold.

if you want better gas mileage and more power buy my truck. lol 400+rwhp 30mpg.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Your 400hp request can be easily achieved by boost controller, HKS FCD, 3" exhaust. Run 18psi on a stock setup and you will be impressed. No need to spend bunches of money until you are trying to achieve 500whp.

:3d_frown: , for your own sake, do not listen to this comment rotarex, especially the bolded one