Engine tear down, checked my crank and rod end play

Matt300ZXT

New Member
Jan 1, 2010
19
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Chattanooga, TN
The motor hadn't run in a year, got it from a local'ish guy who said it was 160 across the board when he pulled it. After a year of owning it and doing my own compression/leak down tests on it recently and getting terrible numbers (mind you I don't recall lining up any marks on the timing pulley with a mark on the oil pump, when I put the new timing belt on, that I recall reading about if that makes any difference), and I was telling him how bad the numbers were, then he admitted he had gotten 150-160 on a wet test when he pulled it, so I think he's a little full of it.

Anywho, I took the head off, cylinders looked good, still plenty of cross hatching marks. I decided today to get a digital dial indicator and test out the end play of the rotating assembly to see if everything tested out within tolerance before I wasted any more time or money having the crank and rods checked out and measured and the block cleaned. The crank was easy to test. Set it up, wedged a screwdriver between a main and a counterweight and wedged it one way, zeroed out the gauge and wedged it back the the other way. The rods were quite a bit harder to get to with the gauge. The rear 3 were easy, the front 3 were a real pain. Anyways, did my best to get the numbers and here they are:

Crank-.17mm / .007in

#1-.28mm / .011in
#2-.36mm / .014in
#3-.29mm / .012in
#4-.38mm / .0145in
#5-.38mm / .0155in
#6-.34mm / .013in

Seems the crank tolerance is a little tight, but the rods all appeared to be comfortably within spec.