Junior PM'd me on this idea, and I agree with him that this is sorely needed.
There are some fantastic bolts and studs available from ARP for the 7M. They are all better quality than the OEM, and in every case, stronger than stock.
I've stated my thoughts on Studs v/s bolts on the head, and I think for the price, there is not a reason to use bolts when the price of the studs is not that much more, but the quality of the clamping force is better. You want an even clamping force across the head, and studs just do that better than bolts.
However, either the ARP studs, or bolts are better than the stock ones. Please never re-use stock head bolts. They are great quality, but they are a one time deal. You stretch them when you tourqe them, and they should only be stretched one time.
I have heard it both ways on the ARP bolts, to re-use them or not, but I KNOW the studs can be re-used many times. (I'm on the 4th motor for this set of studs, and have had no problems at all.)
ARP makes main studs, and it includes two bolts in the kit to provide clearance for the oil pipes. I have this on my stroker motor, and so far, it's worked great. No issues with having one stud and one bolt on two of the main caps either.
The stock main bolts are very robust, and unless your going to build a motor with power goals over 700, I don't believe you need to change out the stock main bolts. (Same goes for the caps, they are very strong, but that's another subject.)
Rod bolts for the stock rods from ARP are a MUST for any rebuild. Just like the head bolts, the stock rod bolts are stretch to tourqe, and once used, they are done. The cost factor here is a no brainer too. The rod bolts are very cheap compared to the loss of an engine due to a broken/failed stock rod bolt. (And generally it's the stock rod bolt that will fail long before the rod fails.)
I have heard rumors of 10mm exhaust studs for the 7M, but think a better way to go is change the exhaust stud size to 7/16" and use widely avialble 7/16 hardware. (Stainless, locking designs and they are cheap to buy since it's a common domestic size.)
The key is to Helicoil your head that size, and your done. (Tech article on this to follow soon.) I have my head helicoiled 10mm x 1.25pitch and wish that I'd gone 7/16 so I could use stainless locking studs from Summit or one of our fine vendors on this site.
Easy and a better solution to your exhaust stud needs.
There are some fantastic bolts and studs available from ARP for the 7M. They are all better quality than the OEM, and in every case, stronger than stock.
I've stated my thoughts on Studs v/s bolts on the head, and I think for the price, there is not a reason to use bolts when the price of the studs is not that much more, but the quality of the clamping force is better. You want an even clamping force across the head, and studs just do that better than bolts.
However, either the ARP studs, or bolts are better than the stock ones. Please never re-use stock head bolts. They are great quality, but they are a one time deal. You stretch them when you tourqe them, and they should only be stretched one time.
I have heard it both ways on the ARP bolts, to re-use them or not, but I KNOW the studs can be re-used many times. (I'm on the 4th motor for this set of studs, and have had no problems at all.)
ARP makes main studs, and it includes two bolts in the kit to provide clearance for the oil pipes. I have this on my stroker motor, and so far, it's worked great. No issues with having one stud and one bolt on two of the main caps either.
The stock main bolts are very robust, and unless your going to build a motor with power goals over 700, I don't believe you need to change out the stock main bolts. (Same goes for the caps, they are very strong, but that's another subject.)
Rod bolts for the stock rods from ARP are a MUST for any rebuild. Just like the head bolts, the stock rod bolts are stretch to tourqe, and once used, they are done. The cost factor here is a no brainer too. The rod bolts are very cheap compared to the loss of an engine due to a broken/failed stock rod bolt. (And generally it's the stock rod bolt that will fail long before the rod fails.)
I have heard rumors of 10mm exhaust studs for the 7M, but think a better way to go is change the exhaust stud size to 7/16" and use widely avialble 7/16 hardware. (Stainless, locking designs and they are cheap to buy since it's a common domestic size.)
The key is to Helicoil your head that size, and your done. (Tech article on this to follow soon.) I have my head helicoiled 10mm x 1.25pitch and wish that I'd gone 7/16 so I could use stainless locking studs from Summit or one of our fine vendors on this site.
Easy and a better solution to your exhaust stud needs.