I have an 89 turbo automatic. Will the aem ems plug into the auto harness or will it only plug in to the manual? I know it will not control the trans. If it will only work on the manual what is the difference in the 87-88 to the 89-92 manual harness? Is it just the plug for the computer?
Aem ems questions
- Thread starter maxspeed
- Start date
auto or man doesnot matter. 89+ is specific to match plugs. you will need a map and air intake sensor along with the aem ecu. also you will need someone to wire in the correct pins in the plugs for these. it is highly recommended to get a wide band to go with this ecu standalone. if you spend that much money a wb is just about required. you will have to tinker with the map via laptop from time to time and an O2 reading is very helpful.
maxspeed;1226661 said:
hi yea i figured I wouldnt start a new thread... I have a question about the intial program. I havent installed the ems system yet but i was wondering if the program that is used for intial start-up is setup up as the original ecm or what? In other words does the ems plug in and will it run a stock 7mgte with any tuing needed? Is it setup to meet the standards of the stock ecm then u build off of that or do u literally have to start from scratch and do everything yourself? I apologize if this is a question asked before if it seems liek a dumb question' I'm just curious to know if i can swap the ecm and have a stock motor run.:1zhelp:
rcboricua07;1241491 said:
The AEM plug and play management comes already calibrated for a stock 7mgte.
jonny87turbo;1241814 said:
well yes and no. You have to send the stock calibration into the aem, set your tps, and set timing. then you have to try to get it to start. a stock 7m cal file may crank right up. i assume you mean you will still have the maf. i have not tried that map. if you have an aem spend the extra $75 to $100 or so and wire in a map sensor and dont use oem maf this will save you much trouble and map is far supperior and recommended for aem.
the stock map from aem will be super pig rich and drivability will suck ass. it will get you to the dyno to be calibrated correctly. as mentioned before you should have a wide band. this with some education will allow you to do some tuning yourself.
What about the auto question, how do you control the auto trans? What is needed? I want both AEM with auto.
Now that I got my ems 30-1130 89+. I have a couple of questions. The air temp sensor how does it get wired? I see that one wire goes to pin 3b to the ems but where does the other one go ground, 12v, 5v ref, or sensor ground? Map is no problem got it figured out.
Now where is the best place to put the air temp sensor and the map? Before the throttle body or after? I think I read that the air temp before the throttle body and the map in the plentum.
Now the last quetion is about the aem uego wideband. I think I read somewhere that you can just take the factory o2 sensor out and put the wideband sensor there. If I do that the four wires that come out of the gauge One is 12v red, two is ground black, three is white 0-5v ref. is that the wire that I would put to pin 6b for the o2 lambda or in a different pin? Four blue wire serial output for data logging. Do I need to hook this wire up if so where? I don't think I need to because I have the ems.
Now where is the best place to put the air temp sensor and the map? Before the throttle body or after? I think I read that the air temp before the throttle body and the map in the plentum.
Now the last quetion is about the aem uego wideband. I think I read somewhere that you can just take the factory o2 sensor out and put the wideband sensor there. If I do that the four wires that come out of the gauge One is 12v red, two is ground black, three is white 0-5v ref. is that the wire that I would put to pin 6b for the o2 lambda or in a different pin? Four blue wire serial output for data logging. Do I need to hook this wire up if so where? I don't think I need to because I have the ems.
I did some more searches and the ait goes to sensor ground. Now the wideband; I guess the blue wire serial output for data logging does need to be hooked up? It looks like I have to tap it into the serial cable that connects to the laptop at rx2 and rx5 has to be grounded. Is that right on the wideband?
You should have a lap top to data log the o2 and other parameters. when wiring in the map, ait and o2 sensor be sure to put the wires in so that when you pull the engine you dont have to remove any pins. you can wire in the ait with the engine harness but if you use plug C you may want those wires to stay in the car when the engine is pulled ie boost control selanoid.
the o2 sensor goes in lamda 1 pin 6B as mentioned. MAKE sure the ground for the o2 sensor is directly to the battery terminal. i used a relay for the power and the o2 has its on power source. dont splice into some other 12v power. the quality ground is very important. be sure to check the voltage out put of the 5v sensor as per instructions so that the volts are the same in 02 volts parameter in the aem. there is a gain that may need adjusting.
temp sensors are resistance and can not be used in 5v sensor inputs. the stupid aem does not have an extra pnp temp sensor available. there are extra 5v sensor inputs like pin 11D which is starter switch and gear in aem. you can use this for a 5V sensor ie fuel pressure. that means that the current function the pin does will be forfieted. many low side and high side switched inputs. these are ground inputs. you can operate a relay etc with them.
The map sensor has to get a regulated 5V from the aem. it will also need a sensor ground. the aem has one.
the o2 sensor goes in lamda 1 pin 6B as mentioned. MAKE sure the ground for the o2 sensor is directly to the battery terminal. i used a relay for the power and the o2 has its on power source. dont splice into some other 12v power. the quality ground is very important. be sure to check the voltage out put of the 5v sensor as per instructions so that the volts are the same in 02 volts parameter in the aem. there is a gain that may need adjusting.
temp sensors are resistance and can not be used in 5v sensor inputs. the stupid aem does not have an extra pnp temp sensor available. there are extra 5v sensor inputs like pin 11D which is starter switch and gear in aem. you can use this for a 5V sensor ie fuel pressure. that means that the current function the pin does will be forfieted. many low side and high side switched inputs. these are ground inputs. you can operate a relay etc with them.
The map sensor has to get a regulated 5V from the aem. it will also need a sensor ground. the aem has one.
You say high and low do you mean amperage 4.5a or 1.5a? To run a relay for the power for the wideband I can use a switched input for the ground of the relay? How do I know if the ground is switched when the key is on? I guess what I am saying is what pin should I use for the relay for the wideband? Would pin 22D clutch switch work or would it only work when a clutch is pushed? I am an auto so I would not need that switch. Or 12B idle switch switch #5 avail,switch input?
you can run a high amp app up to 4.5 amps. The motor or whatever is directly grounded thru the aem and not thru a 30 amp relay would be grounded by the aem. Or you can ground a relay thru the aem. the relay is suppling the motor with the 12v 30 amp power not the aem with a relay. LS can ground out a light like a rpm shift light set up by the aem.
you can use any switched 12v power source to trip the o2 signal relay. i put my o2 relay next to the battery. the o2 harness goes there and the harness is directly grounded to the battery. the o2 harness 12 switched power is to the relay and the relay trip power is wired to a 12 v source that is controled by the key switch. you can get that at the fuse box a the battery or run a wire into the cabin are and find a 12v source that is off when the key is off and it will trip the relay for the o2 sensor. this way the power to the o2 sensor is only going from the battery to the relay. when the relay is tripped by the switched 12v wire the power is fed thru the 30 amp relay only to the o2 sensor so the 12 v will not fluctuate with any other app such as a/c fan etc. the relay conducts power from the battery to the o2 sensor 12 v in.
under my sterring wheel i splice a wire into a 12v switched power and anything that is not a high amp app or just needs a 12v switched to turn on i splice into this wire. if it needs a high amp source i have to get that from a larger fused 12 v wire and run a relay.
if you put a wire into the aem at the clutch switch pin you have to go into the aem and program the parameters for that switch as when to come on or off. when you wire into the clutch switch it will no longer operate as a clutch switch for oem application needs. that wont matter to you since you are a auto. you have to tell it to go off or go on when the parameters are met. ie turn on if boost over 3 psi and water temp is over 32 degress or 150 degrees or whatever the constraints are. then the device wired into that pin will be grounded or stop being grounded (off) when those constraints are met.
you can use any switched 12v power source to trip the o2 signal relay. i put my o2 relay next to the battery. the o2 harness goes there and the harness is directly grounded to the battery. the o2 harness 12 switched power is to the relay and the relay trip power is wired to a 12 v source that is controled by the key switch. you can get that at the fuse box a the battery or run a wire into the cabin are and find a 12v source that is off when the key is off and it will trip the relay for the o2 sensor. this way the power to the o2 sensor is only going from the battery to the relay. when the relay is tripped by the switched 12v wire the power is fed thru the 30 amp relay only to the o2 sensor so the 12 v will not fluctuate with any other app such as a/c fan etc. the relay conducts power from the battery to the o2 sensor 12 v in.
under my sterring wheel i splice a wire into a 12v switched power and anything that is not a high amp app or just needs a 12v switched to turn on i splice into this wire. if it needs a high amp source i have to get that from a larger fused 12 v wire and run a relay.
if you put a wire into the aem at the clutch switch pin you have to go into the aem and program the parameters for that switch as when to come on or off. when you wire into the clutch switch it will no longer operate as a clutch switch for oem application needs. that wont matter to you since you are a auto. you have to tell it to go off or go on when the parameters are met. ie turn on if boost over 3 psi and water temp is over 32 degress or 150 degrees or whatever the constraints are. then the device wired into that pin will be grounded or stop being grounded (off) when those constraints are met.