AEM Cal File for my 2JZ-GE NA-T Swap GT4294

[p5150]

80 is unusually high for the mircoseconds per bit and 100 is abnormally high for the crank injector time table. 0 is absurdly low for the initial crank pulse.

Not sure what you mean about the timing mark bieng elusive. Set the timing in your calibration inside the marks on your cover/balancer so you don't have to dial back the light at all when you are synching the timing.

I didnt notice that you had replied in this thread until tonight when I came back to review everybody's inputs again.

The reason I was talking about timing is because it seems like that is the only thing that is holding me back. This is why:

The other day I took the car out on a rural road and got some baseline runs down. The car ran well but the other day it began refusing to start. I get some stumbles but it wont pick up. If I play with the engine start ignition advance, it seems to respond well with some stumbles but it still wont pick up to an idle.

Now I have noticed that when my battery is fully charged the ignition mark on the crank pulley will show up in a different location than if I crank the motor when the battery is partially drained. When I went to verify timing the other day, the mark wasnt even close to where it should be, and I dont know why.... It was properly set before....

If I could JUST get it idling I could set/verify the timing where it should be....

These 1k injectors are making life difficult for me.

 

[chevyeater]

You are using a 7M CPS? AEM is really bitchy about getting a good signal from them (most CPSs are junk by now). AEM also doesn't care for cranking voltage below ~11ish and will refuse to synch if it goes low.

 

[p5150]

You are using a 7M CPS? AEM is really bitchy about getting a good signal from them (most CPSs are junk by now). AEM also doesn't care for cranking voltage below ~11ish and will refuse to synch if it goes low.

Yes - im using a 7M CPS. Im not getting any errors though so I dont think its a CPS issue.

Ive pretty much given up on trying to get it started until I move later this week, and come to the conclusion that I need to check the timing yet again. I think my neighbors are getting pissed at the backfires. I could feel the compression of the last one in my chest. It was really loud.

 

[p5150]

So after talking with Joe on the phone, he suggested that I pull out the plugs and throw in some cheap copper cores. Well, I tested the iridium NGKs I had in after I pulled them out. Yes, they were misfiring. The spark was running off the side and definately not bridging the gap like it should.

Im going to give it another shot tomorrow after the battery recharges again.

 

[turbo joe]

That's pretty funny...you have that ASE certified deal on your profile...LOL...when I was talking to you, I was @ the ASE test. I just did electrical and engine performance...I'll probably do a couple more in the fall.

 

[p5150]

Yeah Joe - good call on the spark plugs. Sometimes it is the most simple things that give us the problem.

It turns out that the plugs were the problem! I swapped in some cheapie copper cores and fired the bitch up within minutes. The whole time I thought that I had a wiring issue, fuel programming issue or a fuel injector clogged or whatever.... It was just a set of spark plugs! :yelrotflm

When I drove the car earlier this spring it really wasnt running very smooth. Between then and now, I have been playing with the fuel map and I think it just got to the point where the engine wasnt firing right anymore and just burning really dirty - the whole time depositing shit on the electrode.

Thanks for your suggestion man. LOL

 

[Jeff_5_7]

Does the map you posted in the first post run the car? I have a 1Jz with PTE 1000s and a Garret TO4R 67mm with HKS DLI and AEM V1. I thinking about trying your CAL to see if it will start my car and run it good enough to get on the trailer to get tuned.