Hi i have a 87 NA supra that i cant seem to get running, it has spark, fuel, compression, and it is in time.... now if you let it sit for a long time and then try to start it it will start and run perfect for like 5-6 seconds then putters and dies.... it is like it is getting way too much fuel and flooding out.... any suggestions
7m-ge wont run
- Thread starter mosaic_hardflip
- Start date
Sorry im a little new at this i have looked all over the internet and cant figure out how you check codes on a 7m i know it involves a paper clip then counting the flashing lights but where is the connector i put the paper clip in....... again im sorry but what is the CSI...... THANX
Check to see if your sparkplug galery is not flooded with oil or coolant. Pull sparkplug to see if there are any oil in the sparkplug tube.
mosaic_hardflip;899407 said:
Check...
1. Injectors and clips, 2. MAF sensor, 3. Fuses, 4. Voltage, 5. Plugs and wires, 6. Fuel pressure and Vac lines.
Have the smoke test done to the intake, it could be that the gaskets and seals around the intake are bad.
I checked the codes and it came up with a code 41 a TPS code but i checked the tps and it was .22v at closed throttle and 5v at full throttle...... Does a code 41 prevent it form starting
As usual, I'll say check the harness connector first. Make sure it's seated firmly on the tps, that all of the wires are making a good connection, and that all of the insulation on the individual wires is intact.
These are the voltage readings you should be looking for, if you prefer to test it that way:
E2 ground(ground your meter here)
IDL .029v closed, 11.99 open(battery voltage)
VTA .536v closed, 3.5v open(should move evenly from low to high, with no voltage drops, as you go from closed to open throttle)
VC 5.01v closed, 5.01v open
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 Tells you what wires are what on the tps.
Hope that helps.
These are the voltage readings you should be looking for, if you prefer to test it that way:
E2 ground(ground your meter here)
IDL .029v closed, 11.99 open(battery voltage)
VTA .536v closed, 3.5v open(should move evenly from low to high, with no voltage drops, as you go from closed to open throttle)
VC 5.01v closed, 5.01v open
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 Tells you what wires are what on the tps.
Hope that helps.
i read on another thread that a code 41 is in the VTA part of the TPS....... im not sure but does this mean it cant be fixed by adjustment.....
41 Throttle Position Sensor Signal
Diagnosis:
* Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal.
Trouble Area:
* Throttle position sensor circuit
* Throttle position sensor
* ECU
When it says "circuit," it is referring to the wiring from the sensor to the ecu. Most common problem is that the connector is loose, the wires are pulling out of the connector, or the insulation on the wires is deteriorating, and two wires are randomly touching. It's the first thing I always check.
Have you tested the tps with the volt. readings I gave you? With + on VTA, and neg. on E2, slowly open the throttle to wot(key on, engine off). If there is a dead spot(a spot that suddenly reads 0, then continues on normally), then the sensor is bad. If not, and the readings don't match the readings I listed above, it needs to be adjusted.
Diagnosis:
* Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal.
Trouble Area:
* Throttle position sensor circuit
* Throttle position sensor
* ECU
When it says "circuit," it is referring to the wiring from the sensor to the ecu. Most common problem is that the connector is loose, the wires are pulling out of the connector, or the insulation on the wires is deteriorating, and two wires are randomly touching. It's the first thing I always check.
Have you tested the tps with the volt. readings I gave you? With + on VTA, and neg. on E2, slowly open the throttle to wot(key on, engine off). If there is a dead spot(a spot that suddenly reads 0, then continues on normally), then the sensor is bad. If not, and the readings don't match the readings I listed above, it needs to be adjusted.
You should take Cuel's advice and check VTA more closely. 5 volts at WOT is not going to cut it. Closed throttle VTA might be a little less or a little more than what he said depending on how precisely the TPS is adjusted but otherwise VTA must remain between 100 mv and 4.8 volts to prevent coding 41. Course, measuring at the TPS means squat if the signal isn't getting to the ECU.
That said there is no failure mode of the TPS that will prevent starting. Not only is it a trim sensor but as I've pointed out many times the ECU substitutes a workable value whenever this code is set. That value is 25% throttle and will not prevent starting any more than if you held the pedal down 25% with a good TPS. In fact even if the TPS told the ECU the throttle was wide open the engine would still start and idle. The mixture will be richer than normal though, about 4-5% CO, and in open loop.
Nor will a disconnected AFM prevent starting (for the same reason, default values) although it'll limit operation to appx 3000 rpm. All this assumes everything other than the failed sensor is working right. For example because of how the ECU handles an open or shorted AFM signal the TPS takes on a much greater significance in that case. A shifted AFM on the other hand (which is not the same as a shorted or open one) is a different story and will cause lots of grief, as will both a bad TPS and AFM together.
That said there is no failure mode of the TPS that will prevent starting. Not only is it a trim sensor but as I've pointed out many times the ECU substitutes a workable value whenever this code is set. That value is 25% throttle and will not prevent starting any more than if you held the pedal down 25% with a good TPS. In fact even if the TPS told the ECU the throttle was wide open the engine would still start and idle. The mixture will be richer than normal though, about 4-5% CO, and in open loop.
Nor will a disconnected AFM prevent starting (for the same reason, default values) although it'll limit operation to appx 3000 rpm. All this assumes everything other than the failed sensor is working right. For example because of how the ECU handles an open or shorted AFM signal the TPS takes on a much greater significance in that case. A shifted AFM on the other hand (which is not the same as a shorted or open one) is a different story and will cause lots of grief, as will both a bad TPS and AFM together.