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I installed the ARZ kit and had to pump the pedal a few times to get the brakes to work. I bled around 1.5 cans of super blue brake fluid through the system in the proper order and still it didn't feel right. Turns out my master cylinder leaked internally and let fluid past the piston. If I had...

Sorry if this has been covered, but is there a provision for the stock brace that runs from the motor mount to the intake manifold? If its easy to do this might be something to incorporate so the manifold doesn't fatigue and crack at the mounting flange.

Isn't the 6M only partially counterweighted? This one seems to be fully counterweighted. Hard to tell for shure though.

Just the faint knocking sound. Fuel pressure was stable.

I had the same issue with a knocking sound and pulsating fuel line after installing a custom fuel rail with no FPD. I ordered one of these http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php and it helped greatly but did not totally eliminate the problem.

I had this issue after my rebuild. It would occur when going down hill with no throttle, then getting back on it at the bottom. If it's what your describing then the tach jumps down impossibly fast and the car cuts out. Mine was related to the Igniter not being grounded properly as far as I...

I would check that the timing belt is installed correctly. Pins in proper cam gear holes, notch marks aligned with notches in case with crank pulley set at zero degrees. I would then recheck that the CPS is installed correctly (there is a good write up on this site). It seems like your...

The water jacket ports on the stock head gasket leave a large area around the coolant ports on the block surface. It usually corrodes here, and decking the block doesn't always clean it up completely. It shouldn't matter though, since it is not in an area that seals anything. Mine was like this.

Im pretty sure you would need to incorporate the one way valve into the flange as well (the small metal disk with the red silicone flapper in it).

Does anyone know if the pulley bore for the turbo alternator is 17mm or 15mm? I would guess its 17mm but I can't measure it right now. Reason im asking is unorthodox lists 15mm and 17mm bore aftermarket alternator pulleys. Thanks.

ROSS +17

The cams have a soft babbit material coating on the journals. This soft coating is what is scoring, not the actual cam. The coating is kinda like a backwards bearing, where the shaft is soft and the bearing saddles are hard. On a side note, I have yet to see a head that didn't have somewhat...

I got a JDM block without them. At first I thought it was an NA block, but it has the oil feed and both knock sensor ports threaded from the factory.

There should not be any fuel in the intake system as the fuel injectors are in the head a couple inches away from the intake valves. Fuel atomization is not the issue with a smooth finish on the intake manifold. I have read that a rough finish on the inside of a pipe will create a turbulent...

I just figured it would eliminate the possiblity of flash rusting the connecting rod and wrist pin. I am sure you could use water as well. Plus I wanted to make piston flavored french fries ;)

There is no possible way you could remove the pins from my pistons without heating them. When the pistons are at operating temperature they may be full floating but cool the pins are very very tight. If there is enough clearance for the pins to fall out cold then the pistons need to be replaced...

You actually can remove the pistons yourself. I heated some vegitable oil in a pot and heated the piston/rod for a couple minutes then tapped on the pin with a dowel. The pin slid right out, just be sure you dont burn yourself in the process.

Hey guys, I originally learned of the crack through a thread on SF and when I got my JDM engine I very closely inspected the block deck and sure enough there was a crack between the center head bolt hole and the water jacket. The engine was a 40 thousand mile JDM engine that I decided to rebuild...

Yes the 89+ turbo box will fix the problem.