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Just got back from the machine shop, and was quoted right over $1400 for the labor. BUT I did some deep thinking and thought hell the motor is already out might as well do rods and pistons. Sure it may take a little bit longer to do because of money issues, but I'm sure it will be WELL worth it...

Actually I don't think nearly many of us have the ACTUAL Clevites. IIRC the clevites that probably both you and I have are NDC bearings in a clevite box, or something like that. Who knows, but they are going in! - Does anyone else have anything to add?

Yeah, I'm thinking it's going to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500. I was thinking about getting pistons and rods as well, but I think the stockers will hold up fairly well. If I wait a few months I would definately have enough money to go with the wiseco's and rods. Is it really worth...

That is correct, I already have all the parts for the internals of the engine. Except the oil pump, and the auxillary shaft bearings.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, no the 1500 is going to be for all the machine work done. It should cover everything I have in mind. Mods are: -BOSS LIPP TO4E .57 Trim Turbo -Full 3" Exhaust turbo back w/ 3" turbo elbow -HPF IC KIT w/ HKS SSQV BOV -RC 550cc Injectors -Walbro 255 Fuel...

Thanks, I'm going to need it!

Time for a rebuild for the good ole' 7M-GTE, because I spun a bearing. The motor is already out, torn down, and ready to go to the shop. My goal is a reliable daily driven 400+ - 450 horsepowered supra on pump gas for the time being. I want to get this build done right, and I'm here to ask a few...

I haven't had any luck with finding a machine shop that HAS a torque plate anywhere near the Topeka, KS area. I've contacted a few shops that have built up a few 7Ms but none of the builds used a torque plate. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! - Steve

Keep sweeping KS, Ks Sweeper!!! BTW RPG's > TaliBANS!

FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!

Alrighty, I let the car idle for a few minutes, and it was on the lead side. Started up after a few simple cranks. AFR's at idle were 15s, and 16s. I added +15.0 to the mainscale and that helped a little bit. Then went to Tune low load and +10.0% at 400 and 800 RPM's. The AFR's then were 14.5 to...

Mods are as follows... -BOSS LIPP TO4E .57 Trim Turbo -Full 3" Exhaust turbo back w/ 3" turbo elbow -HPF IC KIT w/ HKS SSQV BOB -RC 550's Injectors -Walbro 255 Fuel Pump -Maft Pro Unit w/ the boost solenoid -HKS TT -RPS Stage 3 Clutch w/ 3200 lb pressure plate -PLX M-300 Wideband -HKS...

Updates! Fixed the code 11 by taking off the ground for the wiring bundle, and cleaning its surface off. The car jumped up to idled and sat there. When I give it gas it drops from idleing at 1500 to 800 and bounces up and down. Checked for codes next and got 22, 24, and 51. 22 is bcuz the...

If I remember correctly, the cat is gutted. Also, the other day I was looking around for things out of place. I found a plastic piece that's on the firewall, that used to have a ground wire going to it I think, but not anymore... Edit- I just checked the ground wiring bundle and thats on...

Engine won't run after turbo swap I bought the car back in May with the following already on it- - Rebuilt to stock - HKS 1.2 mm HG w/ main and arp head studs - 550 cc injectors - Walbro 255 Fuel pump - Maft Translator - Custom DP, and exhaust - TO4E .57 trim BOSS/LIPP turbo...

A jack, sure did the job for me. Set it under the gas tank when your ready to lower it, and put it under it when your ready to hire it. Get under the gas tank when your jacking it up, just to make sure the filler neck goes in right, and make sure the straps are on straight. Hope I helped. -Steve

I bought his car, and it's almost up and running. Just waiting on parts which are supposed to be here tomorrow. I'm in Topeka, Kansas so if we could maybe have a meet sometime soon, I would be sure to be there. For that matter even start a supra club I'd be down to do it, as long as we get a...

Bananas FTW also...

You'll see three fuel lines running to the tank. The send,return, and vent I think-Correct me if I'm wrong. The hard line, has a bolt on there that's pretty hard to get off. So I suggest some PB Blaster and a line wrench. That would do the job. Then disconnect the 2 soft lines. Maybe before you...