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one of my headlight motors stopped working. tested it with other plug and it worked fine so its an electrical problem. compared signals with meter and got the same thing on both sides. tried using know good actuator control unit, still nothing. checked for fault in integration relay, still...

same family so tail housing should be the same pattern. input shafts are very different, supra being much longer than the truck.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?137883-How-to-Replace-a-MKIII-Driveshaft-Carrier-Bearing-for-50&highlight=drive+shaft+bearing

I know its an old thread and its been a few months since the last question but i just got done reading the original thread on SF and feel it would be helpful to post up what little I found for the mkiii. *Rear tophats don't cup the new upper perch the way the fronts do and aftermarket...

since we're on the subject, my ebrake is very slow to disengage. i drop the handle but the shoes don't quite let go right away. i've gone and lubricated all the parts in the drum to no avail. it only started to do this after i put aftermarket rotors on.

a shim between the block and composite gasket. lets say you had to take a total of 20thou out of the block and head just to get it straight and smooth, you can put a shim of that amount to bring everything back to proper spec. the right thickness MLS gasket is the best way to go tho.

The top of the block has a small amount of pitting even after some machining and I don't want to take it further down. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

I was told to spray the copper on both sides of the shim. The shim itself never gave me any problems, ran with it for nearly 10k miles. The gasket let go since I didn't retorque my studs, fixed that and then got a new head a few months later that hadn't been machined as much so I was able to...

was it actually an MLS gasket or is it a single layer shim? when i rebuilt my motor i had a 20thou shim between the block and a regular head gasket to make up for the amount that was machined out to make everything straight.

every write up i have ever read talks about cutting the mustang mounts, but seeing yours would one simply be able to just drill bolt holes and use the mounts as is or is it an issue of angle?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-BOAR-Max-Flow-SS-muffler-3-IN-Dual-2-5-OUT-/310269212053?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483d7c7595&vxp=mtr I have this on my custom 3in, DDP, no cat or res. Extremely happy with it, great sound and its not flashy like can style, i think it looks...