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my multi meter proved that the "motor" was not getting correct power. i assumed that it was bad

woa, i didnt do that to my car. i maintenace it more than normal and are always tinkering. im thinking about getting another mkiii......

ya we mkiii owners tend to be goof balls :P its all good though because only mkiii owners understand, a wise man once told me that mk3 supra's pick the drivers......

the contacts on my mws were through the silver plating. the finer the sand paper the better ( within reason ) i used 600 gritt. the larger the gritt the faster it will burn out. if worse comes to worse the contacts will just foul up again. in witch case i would try to make a sleeve, or solder...

this is true, i will have the head machined and ill have the machine shop install the new valve seals i have from the last BHG job i did [ and i didnt check the block for squarness and it blew again :( ]

its a very new motor, you can still see the cross hatch in the cylinders and the bock is only warped .003 at the worst. if im using head studs will it make up for the difference? i guess i can always quit being a cheep ass and just get it machined if i have to.

ha ha ha lol, i didnt even think of that ;) na if its that bad i will roll both windows down. i acutally preferr the set up this way because i dont like to let people smoke in my car and somehow my friends always figure out away to crack the window and smoke ( before it broke ) i didnt tell...

the TSRM calls for .10 warpage for the head otherwise rebuild it. i took a straing edge and feeler gauges and the majority of the block is closer to .05 and there is one corner that is .10 but its only a small portion. should i get it machined even if im using head studs instead of stock bolts?

i got everthing backtogether and it works :) . i had to fix up the master switch and i deleted the passanger switch. it was a very easy procedure to do, once i figured out how everything went back together. thanks for helping! i really appreciate it !

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?636781-Passanger-window-switch-not-working that is the link just incase anyone else wants to do this. im not moving my master switch like this guy is. all im going to do is cut the wires that are needed far enough down and use bullet...

perfect example is the head gasket on 7m's they were under torqed from the factory. not everything in every car is perfect, that is why we car enthousiasts enjoy tinkering and modding things as we choose :)

thank you, ill do that when i get a chance and ill update how things are going.

so we now have some new problems....... i cleaned up the passanger switch and it worked but for only the passanger side, so thats about as pointless as not having it work anyway. i want to make it so just the master switch controlls the car. but im really lost here, there are 5 wires on the...

its funny that you say that because i did some probing and thinking. i realized that it doesnt matter what my multimeter says, if i dont have enough amps to actuate the motor then it wont work, so inturn then i have a high resistance part in the circut. so first place to look is the passanger...

when it was described to me in shop class "amps" is the amount of current, and "voltage" is the pressure in the circut. my shop teacher described it as a hose. he said amps is the amount of water and voltage is the pressure of the water. i dont understand why it is showing full batery votage at...

^^^ ha ha +1

do you think that it is my passanger switch? it doesnt make sense that the meter shows full power at the terminals when disconnected but as soon as i plug it in it wont show jack...... and that is directly at the motor connection. its almost like there isnt enough " pressure " to force the power...

why would you do that if cleaning up the contacts on the switch is easy? im not sure what my problem is but im going to try cleaning up the swtich

yes! when i plug the window motor in i have like " . 005 " on the meter, when i disconnect the motor it goes back to 13.56 . its almost like the motor is just sucking up the power and not acutally working? idk but its weird.

so right now my passanger window is completely torn apart. the window motor is out of the car. and yes both passanger and driver side switches work because it shows full voltage on the meter when i use either one. one side is up and one side is down, the meter will show voltage nomatter witch...