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Yes, it matters. Just like it matters which spark plug wires you attach

I took it out and down the street today for the first time in almost two years. Felt pretty good, was running strong. Now I just have a few small things to button up

Im talking about the fuel tank. It has only the line from the charcoal canister and the filler cap. when the car is under 95 degrees, its essentially the same as running no charcoal canister at all no?

How come Cavitation isn't an issue when the car is not at operating temperature, and the BVSV is closed meaning theres no pressure drawn from the gas tank?

Its called European Delivery. You get to go tour the factory, drive your BMW in Europe for up to two weeks, and then you drop it off at the port, where it will be shipped to your local dealer. It's advertised as cheaper than MSRP, and doesn't cost extra to tour the factory. Most Euro car...

Sure, turbo it.

http://youtu.be/m8U-ZhZa5Co after i sorted out all the bugs

Seems to be running pretty strong now. Just need to install a actual downpipe as the one i had before was fucked. Just trying to find a replacement stock ct-26 downpipe. Thought I was supposed to have lsd...

Installed new injectors. Firing on cylinder 5 now. seems to be running pretty good i think. Now i need to set the timing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8U-ZhZa5Co&feature=share&list=UUwuPVEh5qtB7BjWcV2Obo5g

Well I went to AUtozone and they got me a fel pro intake manifold gasket kit. I changed it yesterday and attempted to start it today. It ran much much much better. When warmed up it ran at about 750 RPM and thats without me adjusting the CPS at all. It still needs to be timed...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzYqxwR5oYU&feature=youtu.be So its still running like a pile of dicks. BUT I know one reason why now. There is a massive vacuum leak in the intake manifold. I can see the tear or rip in the gasket, but ill be gone for the weekend so I wont have an update till...

Followed the CPS guide found on SM posted by SHAEF. Took the CPS off and again set it up correctly making sure piston #1 was at TDC and the marks on the cams lined up with the notches in the timing cover. Same for the crank. Here is a picture of the CPS with the crank at 0 degrees, and this...

I checked the harness and injector clip connectors. Turns out on cylinder 5 the harness side clip had part of the connector coming out. I pushed it back in and it seemed like it was making good contact with the injector. I also tried adjusting the CPS so that it was in the deadcenter of the...

Ill adjust it again tomorrow. I do not think its getting any fuel. While the engine is running as shitty as it does, I use the stethoscope on the fuel injector and i get no clicking noise like i do on others. Ill runi t for a minute, and immediately pull the spark plug its bone dry, but it is...

So do we think its my low compression, or what? Every cylinder has black residue on the piston, except piston 5. I guess it would make sense to say that i had 9 thousands taken off the block and 6 off the head. Im using a 2mm mls head gasket and running 9:1 compression Wiseco pistons.

I will readjust it again tomorrow since i have so much of it off. But i am really concerned by cylinder 5. looking into all the spark plug holes theres visible black residue in them all except cylinder 5. I used a mechanics stethoscope and couldnt detect any clicking on that injector either.

Retested the compression. Made no difference I : Pulled all plugs turned it over for 10 compression strokes pulled efi fuse WOT displayed compression was no different at all. For some reason I feel like the car will not run at all on 120 psi compression.

Thankfully that was the only part I had right. Will try again and report back tomorrow

Damn didnt think about that...I cranked it for 10 compression strokes, and no I did not have the throttle open at all

So I got a compression tester from harbor freight, and im not sure if its because its a bad tester or if its my compression is that bad, but all cylinders were showing 120psi