Search results

I retrofitted one from a volvo, I think it was an XC70 or something, but that was before Hammer started making one. I'd buy the Hammer one if I had to do it again, although I'm not sure it would clear my weird intercooler setup anyway.. Mine has a tubular cross bar system to support the front...

The cobalt joint worked out great. It fits and works like OEM. The machining is more precise than the atv u-joint and it fits the yokes better. I staked it in place like OEM using a punch that I modified to have a flat tip square head to look the same as the OEM stake marks. I was worried that...

The joint on the bottom of the 45220 shaft in the diagram. The joint has a seal on each cross on the u-joint and those seals eventually wear or dry rot and let water in. I found an even better source for u-joints for this, but I haven't tried them yet. I will be tonight though. The lower...

It's likely diff backlash. Even with a fresh diff in the car you still hear that clunk because of how much noise the poly transmits. Make sure your diff is bolted tight to the subframe though and that the subframe isn't cracked at the mount holes near the diff yoke because that's pretty common.

The rack center is important because if the tie rods aren't the same length then each side of the car will have different bump steer effects side to side and you'll get a pull when hitting bumps or dips in the road. The alignment procedure in the TSRM has a check for this right after initial toe...

Long term update, 30K miles and 9 years later the joint is getting a small amount of play in it. Held up pretty good considering the cost and I've never greased it since I installed it.

After almost 7 years and 30K miles mine started to develop a high speed vibration and I tracked it down to the carrier bearing. The rubber shrunk from age and was moving around a few mm in the outer shell. It was also sagged a few mm. I'm replacing it with one of the no-name Korean made center...

Also interested because my spare tire is a sawblade and so right now it'll only fit the rear which is a pain since most flats happen on the front.

Looking at Tein's site the Flex coilovers have a lot more reasonable spring rates for the street. They're listing those at 12K front 6K rear (14K front on the Flex Z) which sounds about perfect. I forget sometimes that my car is on the lightweight side of the supra weight spectrum so the Street...

There are a few rebuilders doing reman auto parts in the US and Canada. Cardone doesn't do them all, but I agree they are the worst still in operation. I forget which company it was that went under about 10 years ago but they were even worse. Sometimes they didn't rebuild things at all just...

What happens is you end up wanting to have them all complete and in top working order and it leaves you having spent more than you wanted to and with less actual time in the drivers seat (actually enjoying the cars) to show for it because you're spending more time in the garage working on them...

A good private contract car hauler can move the car for about $300, so really no reason to abandon the project at this point. If I were you I'd have found a good shop somewhere on the eastern seaboard and had it hauled there to be tuned already, then just drive it home. The important thing is to...

I also have the Tein Street Advance. Despite the "Street" name and the seemingly low spring rates ("only" 16K front and 9K rear) they do ride like a track suspension though. They are a lot stiffer than a Bilstein/tokico/koni and eibach spring combo. If you value comfort at all stay away from...

Yes I am. My car was ABS but I deleted the pump years back but kept the rest of the system the same, I just ran new lines and got a T fitting from another car. After driving it a few more days I decided there was some air in there. You could pump the pedal up fast and it would get higher, which...

My wheels are Drag DR31 17x9" +38 offset. Edit: Ignore this, they weren't bled...----> I'm not happy with the distance you have to push the pedal to move the slack out of all the extra pistons. These calipers seem to retract the pistons a lot when you let off the pedal. I'm sure they're bled...

Advice for anyone doing this... Six years later I'm adding ac to the car and have to dig back into the harness to connect the wires. Don't skip any even if you don't think you'll ever use them.

Mine are done. I still have to bleed them better and bed the pads. Using rear brake hoses worked perfectly. They don't rub anything after all, they fit perfect. Only mod to them is to grind the "keyed" sides of the mounting nut so it fits the keying on the hose bracket on the subframe. I...

I noticed something else useful today while test fitting my calipers. The rear brake hoses for our cars are a much better fit than the front hoses are. They have the same type of ends as the mercedes hoses and they're almost exactly the proper length. You only have to put a piece of rubber over...

I never got any others to fit properly and eventually found a good used one at the junk yard during my 4 year relative absence from the forum. After I did coilovers and upgraded sway the whole issue I was having that I attributed to the damper went away though. I think I was too low on soft...

Not in my budget but these are interesting. You can even get them with a full floating option. https://ceika-store.com/products/coert146 I'll be using the normal cast iron on mine I think. I'm going to make an aluminum hubcentric bushing that attaches through the back of the rotor and then...